Doll Refurbish/Repair

Doll Refurbishing Tips and Techniques

There are many instances where dolls may need extra attention to be their best. Older or secondhand dolls may need some TLC to restore them to a better appearance or greater functionality. Here are some typical doll issues most collectors face, with possible solutions or suggestions for handling those issues.

GLUE HEAD SYNDROME

“Glue Head” can be particularly troublesome to deal with. A doll with Glue Head generally has gummy or sticky hair that looks very oily. Not every doll will suffer from Glue Head, but generally dolls made by Mattel from 2010 onward may exhibit this problem due to the type of glue used inside the doll’s head to secure hair plugs during the factory rooting process. Over time the glue seeps out and gums up the hair and will continue until all the glue seeps out. This process could take several years, meanwhile making the hair gummy and unattractive. Exposing the doll’s head to hot water can hasten this process and make Glue Head even worse.

Glue Head treatments. There are various ways to treat Glue Head, and many videos available on YouTube will show effective methods. Some popular methods include quick fixes as well as more permanent cures. Some treatments may have the potential to damage hair depending on the type of hair fiber, so be sure to check our HAIR FIBER GUIDE before employing treatments that involve chemicals or heat or hot water. Finally, the use of any chemical or substance could present hazards to you or your doll, so do appropriate research and use sensible precautions before proceeding.

• The powder treatment. This treatment involves sprinkling shower powder or baby powder (*1) or cornstarch-based or other non-talcum-based powder over the hair and working it in with fingers, then combing through the hair. Obviously this treatment will not work on intricately styled hair that can’t be combed. It is a quick temporary fix at best. NOTE: Recommended only for light-colored hair, and may dull hair by removing the natural sheen of the hair fiber.
• GooGone treatment. This treatment involves soaking the doll’s hair and scalp area in a cup or bowl of commercial brand GooGone which is designed to remove adhesive residue. This is a harsh chemical and has the potential to damage doll hair and face paint. Testing doll hair is recommended before attempting this treatment. Use safety precautions when dealing with chemicals, such as skin and respiratory protection.
• Acetone degreaser mixture. Mix equal parts acetone, Dawn dish-washing liquid, and tepid water in a bowl and immerse the doll’s scalp and hair completely, avoiding contact with face paint. Use gloves. Gently massage hair with fingers. Let particularly greasy hair soak for a while and comb through soaked hair. Afterward, shampoo with dish-washing liquid and clear tepid water. To condition hair after treatment, dunk in a solution of liquid fabric softener mixed with tepid water, then rinse clean with tepid clear water. Comb and style hair, then let dry. This process may have to be repeated until all the glue is removed from the hair.
• Oxiclean treatment. By far the best known treatment for removing glue residue is to mix a couple tablespoons of Oxiclean powder or a generic alternative in boiled-temperature water, then soak doll hair and scalp in the water for about 30 seconds to a minute. Comb through hair from scalp down. Repeat soak for about 30 minutes or longer if desired. Comb treated hair during the soaking cycle to distribute the soaking material and dislodge stubborn glue from hair fibers. When done soaking, rinse hair in lukewarm water and wash with mild soap or dish detergent with a final rinse with lukewarm/tepid water. Conditioning is usually not required but can be done if desired. Comb and style hair as desired, and let dry. Repeat if needed. (NOTE: Generic ingredients can be used instead of commercially packaged Oxiclean or alternate brand powder. The ingredients include washing soda, which is sodium carbonate, and hydrogen peroxide. Make sure the hydrogen peroxide is not expired, as it loses effectiveness and turns to water over time. ALSO NOTE: Washing powder is not the same as baking soda, which is sodium bicarbonate; nor is it the same as baking powder, which is baking soda plus cream of tartar and sometimes cornstarch. Do not mix carbonate or bicarbonate with vinegar and store in a closed container, as built-up gas from chemical reactions may cause it to explode.)

For more information, click on the links below to see YouTube videos in a new browser tab.

• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – Oxiclean method of removing doll hair gluey residue.
• TheDollBoy – Fixing sticky glue hair with with talc-based powder. *(2)
• Chaymie Creates – Fix greasy sticky hair with talc-based powder. *(2)
• Farrahli CC and Dolls – Treat gluey hair with GooGone and powder inside head. *(2)
• HoneyBeeHappyMe – GooGone method of removing doll hair gluey residue.
• HoneyBeeHappyMe – Alternative treatments for gluey hair (furniture polish, Oxiclean laundry stain spray, orange oil with alcohol).
• HoneyBeeHappyMe – Alternative treatments for gluey hair (powder, dish soap, fabric softener, etc.).

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REMOVING SPOTS, STAINS, AND MARKS

Doll vinyl can be stained or marred by many activities, but the most common is aggressive child play involving pens and markers to “enhance” doll makeup or to give a doll “tattoos.” Dolls can also be stained or discolored from mold and from dyes used in clothing, or by coming in contact with non-color-safe surfaces or items. These types of stains can be very difficult if not impossible to remove from a doll. If the face is stained, it’s possible that attempted removal could damage the doll’s face paint. Certain chemicals safely used on vinyl heads may degrade vinyl bodies due to differences in the type of vinyl used for some doll heads versus doll bodies. Acetone in particular should not be used on hard vinyl doll bodies, because it will melt the vinyl and break it down.

Not all stain removal methods will work on every type of stain. Because there are so many possible methods of attempting to remove stains, we suggest you do some online research for details about doll stain removal before beginning any treatment process. As always, there are possible risks involved with any treatment applied to your doll. With that in mind, we’ve compiled a general list of the types of stains and marks likely to show up on a doll, along with an array of treatment supplies. Specific possible treatment procedures are listed in the following sections for each type of stain.

Potential stain-removal supplies. Here’s a list of supplies that might come in handy if you have a lot of dolls in your collection and anticipate dealing with aged or secondhand dolls that may be plagued with a variety of stain problems.

• Cotton balls, cotton swabs. These can be found in grocery stores or beauty supply stores. Shop for best pricing.
• Toothpicks. Wooden toothpicks come in handy to get into tight places on doll faces to help dislodge and remove residual paint or other unwanted substances.
• White vinyl eraser. A white polymer vinyl eraser found on mechanical pencils, or available in a click holder, can come in handy to remove minor marks and stubborn dirt spots without abrading the vinyl doll surface. Erasers can be found in office supply sections of most stores.
• Foam eraser. Foam erasers like Mr. Clean Magic Eraser can be used to remove large areas of surface dirt and marks, and some minor surface staining. Some erasers may come with soap or other cleaning chemicals suspended in the foam, so be sure to read packages and know what you’re dealing with before using on a particular doll stain. These types of cleaning eraser sponges can be found in cleaning supplies areas of most stores.
• White cotton cloths or paper towels. Soft white clean cotton rags or cloths can come in handy for a variety of cleaning and stain removal. This is a good way to make use of unwanted sports socks with holes in them, and similar rags. If you don’t have an abundance of rags handy, you can always keep on hand a package of lint-free cloths or generic white shop towels, or fiber-reinforced paper towels or shop towels.
• Cling wrap, plastic wrap. Cling wrap comes in handy when using cream or paste applications of stain removers on dolls, especially to wrap the application of a cream or solution to keep in in place during treatment.
• Dish soap. Dish soap (used for hand-washing dishes, not electric dishwashers) is the first go-to treatment for a stained or grungy doll. A good scrubbing with dish soap and water can remove a lot of surface dirt and some stubborn spots.
• Baking soda. Baking soda dampened with water to form a paste has mildly abrasive properties and will help remove stains when your doll is scrubbed with a toothbrush and baking soda paste.
• Toothpaste and old toothbrush. Toothpaste can be a good mild abrasive cleaner, and scrubbing a doll with toothpaste and water with an old toothbrush can remove a multitude of dirt and surface stains and help revitalize the vinyl appearance.
• Isopropyl alcohol (rubbing alcohol). Rubbing alcohol comes in various solutions by volume percentage, from the most popular 70% all the way up to 99%. It may be helpful to keep alcohol on hand. Not only can alcohol help remove certain doll stains, it can be used for antiseptic purposes as well.
• Spray window cleaner. Window cleaners such as Windex brand spray cleaner may help remove specific stains from dolls. Note that the chemical composition of different brands of cleaner may not all be the same. Read ingredients to compare different brands before selecting. Most window cleaners contain chemicals similar to other household products, so window cleaner specifically may not offer unique stain-removing properties. The ingredient of note would be ammonia. Use care when applying window cleaner to doll face paint, as it may dissolve or mar some dolls’ face paint.
• Hydrogen peroxide. Hydrogen peroxide, also referred to simply as peroxide, is an antiseptic and mild bleaching agent that’s handy for removing doll stains. However, it can degrade over time and turn into water, losing its bleaching ability. It’s important to wash and rinse off areas where peroxide is applied to avoid vinyl penetration over time and possible fading of the vinyl.
• Bleach, bleach sticks. Bleach and laundry bleach sticks can sometimes remove certain doll stains, depending on the type of stain. It’s important to wash and rinse off areas where bleach is applied to avoid vinyl penetration over time and possible fading of the vinyl.
• Acne cream with benzoyl peroxide. Not all acne creams are the same. Those containing 10% or more benzoyl peroxide are favored for doll stain removal. This substance like bleach can have the possible effect of fading vinyl, especially on older vintage dolls.
• Acetone. Fingernail polish remover may typically contain some percentage of acetone, but there are also acetone-free polish removers. For best results purchase 100% acetone. Use gloves to avoid contact with skin. WARNING: Acetone will remove doll face paint. Do not apply to hard vinyl – acetone will melt the surface of hard vinyl.
• Chemically specific stain removers. Certain stain and grease removers are chemically composed for specific kinds of stains. For example, there are stain removers for red wine, others for blood and proteins, and still others for ink, paint, mold, gum, etc. Shop for specific stain removers if you have a need for them. GooGone remover is popular for a variety of stains, but there are homemade versions using various natural ingredients that work well at a fraction of the cost. Check online for DIY recipes.

To avoid health hazards, read instructions and use proper precautions when using any type of chemicals, commercial or otherwise, when crafting.

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Permanent marker stains, ink pen marks, dye contact stains. Overall discoloration of vinyl usually afflicts older dolls made of softer vinyl. Embedded dirt may look like an overall stain but can oftentimes be removed with thorough washing with soap and water and scrubbing with a toothbrush. A thorough washing is always recommended before proceeding with any other type of spot removal treatment. Permanent stains, however, will not come off with soap and water and can be notoriously difficult if not impossible to remove because they have permeated the vinyl beyond the surface. These are the worst kind of stain to deal with. Stains that permeate the vinyl beyond the surface usually have a distinct color tinge that bleeds out and gradually binds with the vinyl creating a consistent deep discolored area on the vinyl.

• Permanent marker stains. Permanent marker stains are literally “permanent” because the pigment can permeate the vinyl deep down and spread outward, making it impossible to remove. In general, the ink is composed of a main carrier solvent, a glyceride, a pyrrolidone, a resin, and a colorant, making it water resistant. A doll with unsightly marks and stains from markers can sometimes be treated to alleviate those stains, but a shadow of the stain may forever remain.
• Ink pen stains. Ink used in ink pens is not all the same. Some inks are waterproof and others are not. Some inks have more permeating affects than others. Sometimes ink marks can penetrate the vinyl deeper than the surface and can be quite stubborn if not impossible to remove.
• Dye stains. Sometimes vinyl can absorb color from dyes used in doll clothing and vinyl accessories like shoes, leaving the doll permanently discolored. Certain dyes, especially those used to color dark fabrics and vinyl accessories (especially colors like bright blue, red, purple, and black), may not be colorfast and can permanently discolor vinyl and/or resin dolls. Even short-term contact between vinyl and colored surfaces could potentially stain the doll. Many manufacturers will place separator tissue between the doll and clothing or leave shoes off the doll during packaging to avoid staining. If you buy a new doll and find tissue wrap under the clothing or shoes packaged separately, chances are the doll clothing or accessories has the potential to stain.

Potential stain removal treatments. Not all stains are permanent. Some may be stubborn and involve varying degrees of difficulty to remove. If it’s impossible to identify the type of stain, you may have to experiment with several different possible treatments to find the best one for a particular stain. Always start with the least harmful method first when trying to clean your doll. Washing with dish soap and water or toothpaste and water, and scrubbing with an old toothbrush, will generally remove a lot of grime and some spots that may appear to be stains.

Below are some likely treatments to try on your stained doll. Treatments are listed from mild (least likely to harm the doll) to more serious solutions. Keep in mind that no treatment is guaranteed to work, and some treatments may potentially harm the doll. Also, what may work on one doll may not work on another due to chemical variations in the vinyl and the staining agent. Use these treatments at your own risk.

1. If the spot is small, typically a small dot on the nose or part of the body, try rubbing the spot with a white polymer vinyl eraser. If this does not work, try another treatment.
2. Try a sponge eraser (like Mr. Clean Magic Eraser) by moistening the sponge with a bit of water and rubbing it over the stain. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with another treatment.
3. Moisten a cotton swab or cotton ball with rubbing alcohol. Rub the alcohol over the marked surface. If the doll has other paints and coloring on the surface, use the cotton swab for better accuracy to avoid colored/painted areas. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and try another treatment.
4. Apply GO-JO or M-30 hand cleaner directly to the stain with a cotton swab then let sit for half an hour. It should remove the stain when wiped clean. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with an alternate treatment.
5. Coconut paste or oil may help remove embedded stains. Vinegar, lemon juice, etc. may also remove some stains. If not successful, wash area with soap and water to remove residue and continue with an alternative treatment.
6. Try scrubbing the stain with a mixture of hydrogen peroxide and baking soda. A paste of peroxide and baking soda can be left on the stain for an hour or so. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with another treatment.
7. Anecdotally, this combination of ingredients has been said to work to remove marker stains: deodorant, toothpaste, perfume, window cleaner, and clay. Presumably the clay is a cohesive agent mixed with the other ingredients and left on the stain for a period of time. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with an alternate treatment.
8. Another trick to remove permanent marker stain is to write over the stain with a dry-erase marker. Doing this may cause the pigment carrier chemical of the dry-erase marker to permeate the old stain and reactivate the dried colorant in the stain to help lift it out of the vinyl, hopefully making the permanent marker stain wipe off along with the dry erase marker. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with an alternate treatment.
9. Try leaving a cotton pad moistened with bleach on the stain for a period of time. Alternately, wet the stain with a bleach stick and leave the bleach solution on the stain for a period of time. If it doesn’t remove the stain, wash the doll with soap and water to remove any residue and continue with an alternate treatment.
10. Moisten a cotton ball or swab with the acetone and rub it over the affected area (not recommended for hard vinyl). Do not apply to painted areas of doll’s face unless you intend to repaint the doll’s face. If it doesn’t remove all of the stain, thoroughly clean the doll with soap and water to remove any residue from the treatment and continue with another treatment.
11. The most recommended treatment praised by many doll enthusiasts is to apply acne cream that has 10% benzoyl peroxide to the stained area. Leave it on for a few hours under a bright lamp or in sunlight to fade the stain. For severe stains, leave for a day or two. Several treatments may be required to further fade the stain. NOTE: There is a possibility the compound could fade the pigment of the doll, especially older vintage dolls.
12. Once the stain is removed, clean the surface with soap and water to remove any residue from the cleaning products.

For more information, check out the YouTube videos below:

• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – Removing stains from vinyl dolls with benzoyl peroxide.
• Poppen Atelier – Removing permanent marker stains from vinyl dolls with benzoyl peroxide.
• AzDoesMakeUp – Removing permanent marker stains from vinyl dolls with benzoyl peroxide.
• RosiesWorld – Removing pen ink stains from vinyl dolls with benzoyl peroxide.

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GREEN EAR SYNDROME

Prevention is worth a thousand fixes. Dolls wearing earrings with metal posts can suffer “Green Ear.” Green Ear is an unsightly green stain that permeates the doll’s vinyl, usually around the ears, and can spread to the entire head. Green Ear is caused by a reaction between the metal and the vinyl, creating a greenish discoloration of the vinyl. Green Ear is most often found in older vintage dolls, due to the chemical differences between older vinyl and newer vinyl, but also due to the fact that any vinyl releases plasticizer chemicals as it ages, and those chemicals react with and corrode metal. Green Ear can sometimes occur with newer collector dolls, even Mattel Barbie Silkstones. While Green Ear usually starts at the ears, it can also occur on any part of the doll that comes in repeated or long-term contact with metal accessories.

Some doll collectors advocate using jewelry made with hypoallergenic metal, but in truth there is NO metal that is “safe” to use with vinyl dolls. If original metal earrings or jewelry will be used on the doll, the first and most important step in preventing greening of vinyl through contact with metal is to remove any metal accessories that come in contact with the doll and coat the jewelry with a waterproof clear varnish that will not react with vinyl or the metal. Some doll collectors have advised using clear nail polish, but since nail polish usually contains acetone, this could create problems with the vinyl or the metal or both. An acrylic varnish containing no reactive chemicals is the better choice. The best choice by far is to not use metal jewelry at all, but instead choose plastic alternatives. Of course, over time, even plastics with different chemical bases can react with aging vinyl and produce unwanted results like fusing, bubbling, or melting. If jewelry of any kind will be used for display purposes, make sure you check your dolls regularly for signs of greening or other problems like staining or melting, and absolutely do not store dolls while wearing metal jewelry. In fact, it is recommended that never-removed-from-box dolls be taken out of the box specifically to remove any metal jewelry to prevent damage far worse than unsealing the box.

Another important factor in helping to prevent green corrosion is to not allow dolls to be exposed to moisture, as moisture can hasten the corrosion process and introduce the additional problem of mold. See our section on DISPLAYING/STORING DOLLS for more information.

Dolls with internal wires. Dolls with metal wire embedded inside flexible vinyl body parts can suffer the same type of corrosion from the inside out, due to the metal reacting with the vinyl. The discoloration can spread over time and is almost impossible to remove completely. Dolls with wires embedded inside vinyl body parts may not ever be cured of green corrosion stains because the wires cannot be removed and will continue to cause problems as the vinyl deteriorates with age.

Treatment considerations. Various collectors over the years have tried different kinds of treatments and products to cure or alleviate Green Ear. Below is a list of some of those treatments along with possible side-effects that may include browning of treated vinyl, color-fading of treated vinyl, or even destroying hair on treated dolls.

IMPORTANT: Treatment takes time and perhaps multiple applications. Do not mix treatments. If you choose a treatment, do a test first on the doll before proceeding with treatment. Not all doll vinyl will react the same. Dolls may be manufactured in different places at different times, and the vinyl composition may vary greatly from doll to doll, meaning that one doll may not be damaged by the use of chemicals such as benzoyl peroxide, while another doll might be. The best way to make sure you do not do more harm than good is to test a small area of the doll that is not noticeable and wait a while to check the status of the tested vinyl area before proceeding with your chosen treatment.

If you are treating the head, the test spot must be on the head, perhaps under the back hairline. First, leave the treatment on over night and check in the morning for any signs that the vinyl is reacting badly. If a bad reaction occurs, DO NOT USE this treatment method. If the treatment test does not show damage, wash away the test treatment, then wait a week and check on the doll periodically for signs of damage before continuing treatment. If there is no damage, then proceed with the treatment as recommended.

Mixing chemicals can produce unexpected and unwanted results. If the treatment you’ve chosen fails to give satisfactory results, it’s best to halt treatment and remove all residue, then let the doll rest before attempting an alternate treatment. Always research before selecting a treatment, and use caution when performing any restorative techniques.

Removing the doll’s head for interior treatment. Green corrosion caused by earrings may require the doll head to be removed to thoroughly treat inside the head with a cotton swab to remove corrosion material. Removing the head comes with the added risk of breaking the doll’s neck because of the vinyl turning brittle with age. If greening isn’t severe, it’s best to try a topical treatment first before attempting to remove the head. If the head must be removed, soften the vinyl by putting a plastic bag over the doll and immersing the head and neck into a bowl of hot boiled water. When the head is pliable (somewhat squishy), gently work the head side to side as you pull upward. On older dolls with stiffer vinyl heads, do not use tools to pry off the head at the neck hole, because splits at the neck hole can occur. When reattaching the head after treatment, the head should be heated again inside a plastic bag to soften it before attempting to reattach the head to the doll body.

For more information about various ways to remove a doll’s head, click on the links below to see YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Doll World Shows – Switching Barbie doll heads.
• Integrity Toys – Switching hard vinyl Fashion Royalty doll heads.
• Katie Deshazer – Rebodying a Barbie Doll (removing head using a screwdriver).

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Tarn-X Silver Cleaner (NOT recommended). In the past, some doll collectors used Tarn-X silver polish on their Green Ear stains by soaking a piece of cotton in Tarn-X silver cleaner and keeping the cotton in place with plastic wrap for two days. After two days, the cotton is removed, followed by rubbing a paste of baking soda and water on the spot. A day or two later, the baking soda is washed off with warm soapy water.

Some doll collectors report that removing Green Ear stains with Tarn-X may eventually leave a large brown stain because vinyl reacts to the chemicals in the Tarn-X. The vinyl may also swell and become misshaped. And last, Tarn-X contains 7% thiourea, a chemical the state of California considers to be a carcinogen.

Remove-Zit and Formula 9-1-1 from Twin Pines. The treatment involves removing the offending earrings, then soaking a piece of toilet paper with Remove-Zit and placing the toilet paper directly on the stain, taking care not to make contact with face paint because it will remove face paint. This treatment is said to work well on Silkstone faces that are made of a harder vinyl than most non-vintage play-line dolls.

Additionally, some doll collectors and suppliers suggest wiping the treated area with Formula 9-1-1 after treatment with Remove-Zit to remove any chemical residue from Remove-Zit. Give the doll a good wash with soap and water after wiping with Formula 9-1-1, and allow the doll to dry thoroughly.

CLR (Calcium, Lime, Rust Remover). CLR was once the best recommended treatment, but its formula has changed, and it has been reported that the new formula CLR is less effective. While many doll enthusiasts report that the CLR treatment (with the old formula) works wonders, and dolls remain undamaged and green-free even when treated many years ago, others report that the treatment may leave the vinyl faded or discolored on some vintage dolls. The difference in reported results may be due in part to differences in vinyl composition, CLR formulas used, or application techniques. Some doll collectors report vinyl swelling after treatment with CLR, so proceed with caution.

Cleaning out the inside of the head with a Q-tip soaked in CLR is highly recommended to remove the green gunk inside. The less residue the better, as far as successful treatment goes. However, removing the head of a vintage doll can introduce the added risk of breaking the neck due to the general brittleness of the vinyl from aging. (See tips on head removal in the general discussion of Green Ear.)

Generally CLR may work best on the 1961 “greasy-face” dolls. Reportedly there is nothing that works well on mod-era Barbie dolls since they can be difficult to de-green, and most treatment products also remove the vinyl pigment, creating fading. Swirl ponytail Barbies can be really difficult to remove the green, which may never be completely removed.

Acne cream with 10% benzoyl peroxide. Some doll collectors have had great success removing stains from vintage plastic dolls (even black marker pens) using acne cream with 10% benzoyl peroxide by dabbing it on with a cotton ball and wrapping the area with saran wrap then setting the doll in sunlight. Some cases may take several days and re-application. As always, thoroughly clean treated areas with soap and water, and allow doll to dry completely.

Other doll collectors report little or no success with green removal using acne cream, and some suggest it may actually bleach and discolor the vinyl of older dolls, so proceed with caution.

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DETERIORATING (STICKY, WET, OR POWDERY) VINYL

Dolls made of vinyl, especially vintage dolls from the 60’s, can be prone to “wet” or “sticky” vinyl. This happens as the vinyl ages and deteriorates, causing the plasticizer chemicals added to soften the vinyl to leak out, creating a wet or sticky sheen on the doll. Occasionally leaking plasticizers may appear as moldy or powdery growth on the vinyl, while not actually being a situation of mold growth.

Some dolls show this type of deterioration only on the face or the legs. Some older dolls from the 60’s or 70’s may not experience any apparent side effects, while dolls from the 80’s or even 90’s may be prone to this type of deterioration. All vinyl ages, but some vinyl deteriorates faster than other vinyl, and it may simply be a factor of difference in chemical composition and/or manufacturing technique. Once vinyl begins to deteriorate in this manner, there is nothing that can stop it. However there may be some temporary treatments that can alleviate the symptoms of plasticizer seepage.

CAUTION: There are known health problems associated with chemicals used in plasticizers, so if a doll is exhibiting plasticizer leakage, it’s best not to allow children to play with the doll, and to handle the doll with care using gloves. *(2)

Temporary treatment for deteriorating vinyl. Gather the following ingredients and follow the steps below to restore your plasticizer-leaking doll.

• Items needed: Baking soda, water, a cloth.
• Steps to remove leaking plasticizer:
  1. Wet a cloth with water, then wring it out so it’s only damp, not dripping.
  2. Sprinkle baking soda over the cloth.
  3. Wipe the baking soda over the affected areas, rotating the cloth to a fresh supply of baking soda as the plasticizer residue is absorbed by the cloth.
  4. Once the doll is no longer exhibiting plasticizer residue, rinse it with plain water.
• Additional tips: If the above method doesn’t seem to be working, try using white vinegar instead of baking soda. Each type of plastic is unique, and you may have one that responds better to an acid than to the alkaline baking soda. If you are still encountering problems, rub the leaking area with some oil, such as olive oil. If the leaked plasticizer has sat for a long time, oil can help to freshen it and make it easier to remove by retrying the methods listed above.

More to come, but that’s all for now!

As always, any aggregated information we present on this site comes from our own experience and general research of experiences of other hobbyists, and is offered with no guarantee that suggested activities will work as expected or desired. Follow any crafting advice or suggestion at your own risk.

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Minor Non-Structural Doll Repair Tips

Damaged, older, or secondhand fashion dolls may need some minor repairs to restore them to a better appearance or greater functionality. Many doll artists and collectors have experimented with a variety of repair and restoration techniques to fix minor issues. Following are discussions of various types of repairs that don’t involve rebuilding or repairing structural components of a doll.

Be sure to check out selected YouTube videos at the end of this section to find out more on various subjects discussed here. This will give you a starting point for doing further research if desired.

RESTORING STRETCHED, MISSHAPEN, DEFORMED, OR CHEWED VINYL DOLL PARTS

The grade and consistency of vinyl used to create various parts of a typical fashion doll can vary depending on the mechanical function of each part, manufacturing process variations, price point of the doll, and a host of other considerations. Most better-quality play-line fashion dolls are assembled with vinyl parts made by using a high-heat injection mold process. This process and the nature of vinyl material gives most parts of a doll a certain amount of flexibility and tensil strength to avoid breakage under casual repeated pressure. The parts also have “shape memory,” meaning vinyl has a tendency to return to its original molded shape even after being distorted.

Distortion of the original vinyl mold shape can happen for a variey of reasons. Most common reasons include improper storage or damage from rough play and behavior such as chewing. Typical vinyl distortion from improper doll storage may result in bent or bowed legs, or squashed/misshapen faces. More serious abusive play behavior can result in chewed and distorted doll appendages – especially hands.

Because vinyl is shaped in a mold using high heat, heat can also be used to reshape distorted vinyl pieces. For instance, the neck holes in some soft vinyl doll heads may become loose or stretch out over time and due to stress from rough play or improper storage. Oftentimes the vinyl head can be restored by dunking the head in boiled water. Caution is advised to avoid damaging heat-sensitive doll hair and melting appendages on hot pan edges.

If parts that are chewed are not actually missing pieces, it’s possible to restore the damaged appendage to its original shape by dipping it in boiled water. Restoration results may not be perfect, but may improve the overall appearance and structural integrity of the damaged part.

In the case of hard vinyl appendages such as arms or legs that are bent, dipping the appendages and carefully reshaping it can solve distortions. Quickly dipping the reshaped appendage in cold (ice) water will help set the restored shaping. Take care not to bend too drastically to avoid breaking the vinyl. Repeated heating, bending, and cooling might be required for serious distortions.

For more information on this, click out the links below to watch these YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• rapunali – Straightening bowed hard vinyl doll legs.
• MaryMagpiedolls – Restore original shape of deformed doll parts.
• Amber Ruxpin – Reshape/restore chewed vinyl doll hand.
• fumsmusings – Restoring misshapen/squashed vinyl doll head.

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REPAIRING LOOSE JOINTS

Joint types for fashion dolls can vary greatly. Fixing loose knee and elbow joints may require a multitude of repair techniques, depending on the type of joint involved. Because there are so many types and styles of dolls, it is nearly impossible to provide brand or model-specific techniques to firm up loose doll joints. Therefore information we provide will be generalized based on the type of joint and various techniques known to work either temporarily or semi-permanently. NOTE: Information provided is not guaranteed to work on every doll and may come with risk of damage to the doll if glues or other chemicals are used, or removal of the head or an appendage is recommended as part of the process.

Loose or wobbly neck joints. An older doll that has a neck joint allowing back-and-forth and side-to-side movement in addition to simple twist movement may eventually end up with a wobbly head. This is especially true if the doll has a lot of hair in an updo, like a Superstar ponytail Barbie, that makes the head top-heavy. Over time the vinyl of the head can lose some plasticity and the neck hole can become slightly larger, causing the head to wobble. Wobbly-head syndrome can also happen when a head is removed from one body and switched to another body. Head molds may differ enough that the neck hole of two dolls of the same model can be slightly different sizes. This is especially likely to happen when different brands of dolls are mixed and matched by switching heads. Here are a couple techniques to tighten up the neck hole or stiffen the neck joint.

• Heat the head and neck with hot boiled water. For dolls where age or wear and tear create a larger neck hole, sometimes dipping the doll head in hot water can help reshape the vinyl of the head, and the neck hole will shrink slightly as the head cools. It’s recommended that the doll be protected by a clear plastic waterproof bag when dipped in hot water. This technique should not be used on dolls with heat-sensitive hair fibers, or dolls with customized face repaints, or dolls with glued-on hair fibers or wigs. Heat can loosen curls in certain hair fibers or even damage the hair fiber itself, as well as loosen glue. For rooted dolls, test a strand of hair located in the back underside of the hair before using this technique.
• Tie fishing line around the neck while the head is attached. This is an easy fix because it doesn’t require removal of the head. Take clear nylon fishing line (thin gauge) and wrap tightly around the neck post, pulling tight enough to ensure the line goes underneath the edge of the neck hole on the doll head to secure it directly to the neck knob or spindle. Tie a tight knot to secure the line around the neck joint. Use needle-nose pliers to manipulate the line ends if needed in order to create a strong and secure double knot. After the initial knots are in place, wrap the line around the neck joint until the head feels firm and doesn’t wobble, but is still able to move as originally designed. The more line wrapped around the neck joint, the stiffer the joint will be. Tie a double knot to secure the line, then snip off the ends. Make sure the line is completely tucked under the doll’s neck hole.
• Add frosted tape to the neck joint. If the doll’s head is removed or the doll head is being rebodied and the neck hole is slightly too big for the neck joint post, sometimes frosted tape (like Scotch brand “Magic” tape) can be wrapped around the neck post to create more girth and provide bulk to fill the neck hole when the head is attached. The tape’s adhesive helps keep the tape in place while the head is attached, and the tape can easily be removed when the head is removed.
• Add clear elastic bands to the neck joint. Small thin elastic bands like loom elastics can be stretched over the doll’s head and wrapped tightly around the neck peg, making sure the bands are tucked inside the neck hole. Alternatively, elastic bands can be wrapped around the neck peg directly if the head is not attached. The bands may eventually deteriorate without causing damage to the doll but will provide extra bulk to secure the head and stiffen the neck joint for a very long time.
• Add a bead of hot glue inside the neck hole or directly to the neck peg. Applying hot glue requires some skill to control the amount of hot glue placed on the neck knob or inside the neck hole rim. This is only useful for a temporary fix, as the hot glue when cool may eventually break from twisting stress. If too much glue is applied, the head of the glue gun can be carefully inserted into the neck hole to melt off some of the glue. Or the extra glue can be trimmed off the neck knob or cut out of the neck opening with an Xacto knife. Obviously this technique comes with risks:
  • — possible damage to the neck joint with removal of the head;
  • — possible damage to the neck hole with heat from the glue gun;
  • — possibly burning yourself with the hot glue;
  • — possibly cutting yourself or the doll if an Xacto knife is used to remove excess glue.

For more information, click on the links below to watch these YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Barbierocks & Collectibles – Fixing wobbly doll heads with elastic bands.
• Novastar Dolls – Fix wobbly doll head with elastic bands.
• fumsmusings – Restoring misshapen/squashed vinyl doll head.

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Tightening slotted knee joints on hard vinyl legs. Mattel has used the slotted knee joint for several decades. This type of knee joint is designed so the top of the calf has a large flat rounded vinyl section inserted into a slot at the end of the thigh. The upper and lower leg pieces rotate around a vinyl post that acts like an axle and is secured on the ends in the mold process so that is is not removable. This type of joint can become extremely loose so the lower legs flop and swing erratically, making it impossible for the doll to maintain a pose while standing up. Possible fixes might include:

• Loom elastics. The easiest way to keep the joint from flopping is to tightly wrap clear small elastic bands (loom elastics) around the knee joint and tuck them into the joint as much as possible. The drawback is oftentimes the elastic remains visible in the joint, and the elastics will eventually deteriorate. This fix may last quite a long time, but at some point you may have to re-tighten the joint.
• Hot glue. Another approach is to apply a small amount of hot glue to the joint and work it slowly back and forth to maintain mobility and work the glue into the spaces between the slot and peg portions of the joint. A drawback may be that the glue could remain visible.
• Superglue. Squirt ethyl cyanoacrylate glue (superglue) or a similar fast-drying strong-grip cyanoacrylate glue into the joint and continually move the joint to maintain mobility until the glue has time to dry completely. What keeps the joint from flopping is the contact friction between the joint components. The glue chemically reacts with the joint components and causes the vinyl to swell and lessen the space between joint parts. This may work only for joints that do not have too much loose space between the joint components. NOTE: It is important to continually work the joint back and forth to maintain mobility so the joint does not become glued together. Take care not to glue your fingers together or to other objects. Wipe off glue residue with acetone-containing nail polish remover. Do not over-wipe the hard vinyl body parts with acetone-containing chemical or the acetone could react with the vinyl and soften and distort/mar the surface.
• Clear nail polish. Applying a small amount of clear nail polish to the joint area does basically the same thing as the superglue, except acetone actually tends to melt ABS plastic/vinyl, so the acetone in the nail polish will slightly melt the joint pieces to make them have better contact friction. It is important to keep moving the joint as the nail polish dries. Wipe off any excess polish that gets on the doll body to prevent marring the surface.
• Nylon washer for large joint gaps. Use a washer that is thin like pasteboard and small enough to fit neatly into the joint gap. Cut out a portion of the washer to create a “C” shape and insert the open part of the “C” into the joint so the middle of the washer fits over the axle rod of the knee joint. Tools like needle-nose pliers and small flat-head screwdriver can help with the insertion process.
• Paper or pasteboard inserts for large joint gaps. If the gaps between the joint parts are exceptionally large, you could try inserting pieces of paper or pasteboard into the joint spaces. (Pasteboard, also called paperboard, is thin, smooth, single-wall cardboard used for packaging boxed food like spaghetti or dry cereal).
  1. Ideally the paper or pasteboard should be layered to be about the same thickness as the joint gaps. If pasteboard is too thick, glue layers of paper together to create the correct thickness.
  2. The joint insert piece should match the size and general shape of the joint gap, and be no larger than the gap it will fill.
  3. The final insert piece should be colored with thin coats of acrylic or model paint to look similar to the vinyl so the added piece is not so obvious.
  4. For added stability, put a layer of strong glue on the side of the paper or pasteboard insert that will face the stationary (non-moving) joint piece. The glue should be compatible with and stick to both vinyl and paper.
  5. Insert the piece of paper or paperboard into the joint gap to take up the slack, making sure the glue does not touch other moving parts of the joint. Use a pin or some other small pointy object to help shove the piece into the joint space and correctly align it.
  6. Carefully move the joint to check mobility and make any adjustments needed. The added material should create contact friction to stiffen up the joint, but not so much that the joint has difficulty moving.
  7. Allow the glue to dry completely to bond the shim piece to the stationary joint piece. Periodically check mobility during the drying period to make sure the joint isn’t completely glued together to prevent proper movement.
  8. It’s best to add inserts on each side of the joint to make the adjustment even and avoid putting the joint off-kilter, which could cause a stress-break in the vinyl.
  9. Over time the paper or pasteboard may deteriorate or wear down and fray enough to become unsightly or fall out, so this fix may have to be repeated later.

NOTE: If you choose to use a joint-fix method on a doll, and the doll later needs another treatment on the same joint, it’s best to stick with the same treatment used before, unless you can remove most of the residue from the previous treatment. This is especially important when using the superglue method on a joint. If, for example, you later wanted to retreat the same joint using clear nail polish, the superglue coating the joint in the first treatment may prevent the acetone in the polish from penetrating the vinyl to melt it and create the necessary friction between the joint components to tighten movement.

For more information, click on the link below to watch a related YouTube video in a new browser tab:

• PassionFruit DIY – Tightening doll joints with small elastic bands.

Tightening peg-insert rotating joints. Modern fashion dolls with more sophisticated articulation, manufactured within the last ten to fifteen years, may feature shoulder, elbow, wrist, knee, or ankle joints that consist of a slot-type joint with a peg on one end inserted into an appendage section to allow for compound motion of rotation as well as bending at the slotted joint juncture. Examples of this type of joint can be found in Integrity Fashion Royalty dolls and 2009-2013 articulated Barbie Fashionistas.

Because these joints are usually smaller and more precise than the older slotted knee joint described previously, there is less space between the joint components. When these joints become loose and floppy so that they no longer hold posing position, the recommended method of tightening the joints is the SUPERGLUE method or the CLEAR NAIL POLISH method previously described above to swell or melt the joint surfaces to increase contact friction.

For more information, click on the link below to watch this YouTube video in a new browser tab:

• Integrity Toys – Tightening loose vinyl doll joints with superglue or clear nail polish.

Tightening elastic-band hip joints of hard vinyl legs. This type of doll hip joint consists of round loops molded as part of the interior hip, through which an industrial-strength elastic band is strung to secure the hips together through the hollow crotch area of the doll body. With age the band sometimes becomes loose, allowing the hips to flop freely. Each hip can be tightened by wrapping clear elastic bands (loom elastics) around the leg and sliding them up inside the hip joint area so the elastics tighten the internal hip band. For extremely loose hips, several elastics may be required. Add as many as needed to each hip to attain controlled hip movement.

For more information, click on the link below to watch the YouTube video in a new browser tab:

• PassionFruit DIY – Tightening doll joints with small elastic bands.

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UNFREEZING LOCKED JOINTS.

Doll joints can freeze or seize up for a variety of reasons. They may come from the factory that way. A small piece of extra plastic in the joint could get in the way and prevent proper movement. Older vinyl dolls exposed to excessive heat might have joints parts that stick together and prevent movement. Older dolls with various body parts made from different kinds of vinyl or plastic might have frozen joints because the different materials reacted and created a melting situation that partially fused the parts together. An interior mechanism might get in an unnatural twist and refuse to move. The reasons are as varied. Here are a couple methods to unfreeze a joint that might work for you.

Loosen locked joints with baby oil. A lubricating substance like baby oil or mineral oil can be applied to the joint all round the joint seem or contact points. While other types of oil can be used, such as cooking oil or machine oil, keep in mind the scent of the oil will remain on your doll. Clear oil is preferred. Cooking oil tends to yellow and get gummy over time, so it is not really recommended.

Pour a small amount of oil into the bottle cap and use a cotton swab dipped in the oil to apply the oil to the joint. Gently and gradually work the joint back and forth to help the oil penetrate the joint contact area. Apply more oil if needed and keep working the joint until it is restored to proper movement. Wash off oil residue with soap and water, allow the doll to dry thoroughly.

For more information on this procedure, see the Youtube video by A Thousand Splendid dolls: CLICK HERE to watch in a new browser tab.

Loosen melted or fused joints with a straight razor blade or a craft knife. In extreme cases of locked joints where the appendage has actually melted and fused with the body (something that is known to happen with dolls made in the 60’s), it may be necessary to cut through the fused parts of the body so they can move freely again. When doing this use extreme caution to avoid causing injury to yourself or the doll with sharp cutting tools. A straight razor blade or a sliding “zip” knife or an Xacto knife with a long pointed blade is recommended. Take special care not to cut the interior mechanism of the joint – you should be able to tell the difference in pressure between the softer vinyl and the harder plastic interior mechanism. Rotate the joint gently until it is restored to proper movement.

Removing mechanical joint obstructions. Sometimes during the manufacturing process an extra piece of plastic may get stuck in a joint and cause the joint not to move properly. In that instance, it’s important to carefully examine the joint and compare it to a similar joint to make sure you can spot the plastic piece that doesn’t belong. Sometimes if it’s a loose piece, it can be pushed out of the joint with a pointy tool. In other cases it might be a piece of plastic left over from the molding process that needs to be trimmed off and removed to restore the joint to proper function.

More to come, but that’s all for now!

As always, any aggregated information we present on this site comes from our own experience and general research of experiences of other hobbyists, and is offered with no guarantee that suggested activities will work as expected or desired. Follow any crafting advice or suggestion at your own risk.

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Doll Structural Repair Tips

Broken, damaged, older or secondhand fashion dolls may need some severe repairs in an attempt to restore them to a better appearance or greater functionality. Many doll artists and collectors have experimented with a variety of repair and restoration techniques to fix structural or other issues. Following are discussions of various types of structural repairs that go beyond simple cleaning and refurbishment of a doll.

Be sure to check out selected YouTube videos at the end of each section to find out more on various subjects discussed here.

REPAIRING CRACKED OR BROKEN NECKS

Doll vinyl can become brittle with age and/or deterioration, and narrow or stressed body parts can crack or break apart. Hard vinyl doll bodies are most susceptible to breakage because less plasticizer is used in the vinyl and so the vinyl is less pliable. Doll necks where the head is attached are subjected to a lot of stress, as are joints of the shoulder, hip, elbow, and knee. We’ve already discussed common methods used to tighten joints. Below are some suggested repair techniques for doll parts that are actually broken. Some repairs may be more successful than others, while a few techniques may prove to be temporary or only partially restore functionality. The success of a repair will depend on a variety of factors, including the extent of damage to be repaired, the structural configuration and integrity of the areas to be repaired, the intended functionality after repair, the supplies available for repair, and finally the skillfulness of the repair.

Broken neck joints – overview. Broken neck joints are some of the most difficult to repair to restore the doll’s original functionality without leaving a noticeable repair scar. For this discussion we will only cover repair techniques for dolls with hard vinyl necks.

Specific brands/models of dolls may feature a head that is designed in two pieces – front/face and back/scalp. The pieces are held together with screws or magnets and are intended to be dismantled to replace resin or glass inset eyes, or repair internal eye-movement mechanisms. However, most mass-manufactured fashion dolls have heads made of pliable vinyl or semi-hard vinyl that can become somewhat pliable if heated. The pliability allows for proper assembly during the manufacturing process, and the neck hole is designed so that the head can be held securely in place on the body yet allow for head movement. Some dolls have a solid neck with a knob molded on top that secures the head in place to allow for side-to-side swivel movement only. But most better-quality fashion dolls have a hollow neck with a movable piece secured from inside that has a top knob or disk or peg to hold the head. The movement of the inner piece or the top attachment securing the head allows for all-around varied head movement that includes tilting as well as swiveling.

Because the neck is narrow and hollow and has small moving mechanisms inside, these parts are very susceptible to stress and breakage. Here’s a recap of the most common contributors to damage/breakage of the neck:

• Vinyl age and deterioration. Vinyl age and deterioration cannot really be controlled, except to the extent that providing a proper environment for the doll may help lessen or slow deterioration. Protection from UV light and extreme temperature changes are important preventive measures, but if a doll is procured secondhand, it may already have been exposed to situations that would hasten deterioration.
• Sustained pressure or stress. Sometimes even slight but sustained stress on the neck and other joints while the doll is in transit or storage can cause the neck to break. It’s important to properly cushion and position a doll inside a “cocoon” when packing it for storage or shipping. Make sure the doll is positioned in a stable flat pose so that appendages won’t move or be put in a twist where applied pressure could damage or snap a joint. Wrap appendages – including the head and neck – at joint junctures with extra padding before wrapping the whole doll in bubble-wrap or some other space-cushioning material. Take care not to apply too much load-bearing weight to the doll (like packing too many other dolls on top). Place the doll in a container large enough to provide cushioned space all around the doll.
• Rough handling. Rough play can cause the neck mechanism and surrounding neck structure to break. Rough handling is not really preventable unless children are taught to practice specific cautions when playing with their dolls – but even then, it’s nearly impossible to control in-the-moment play activity.
• Attempts to remove the head from the doll body. Most doll enthusiasts/collectors understand the necessity of taking specific precautions when attempting to remove a doll’s head for rebodying, modifications, or refurbishment. In some cases, where the underlying structural or internal mechanism of the neck is not broken or malfunctioning, surface repairs can be made without removing the doll’s head. If you are not comfortable removing the head or fear that the vinyl is too old and brittle, and removal would further damage the neck, it’s best you don’t attempt to remove the head, but instead focus on making surface repairs only.

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Removing the doll’s head. When it’s necessary to remove the doll’s head from the body, it’s important to take care while performing the process. Some removal methods are safer than others, as they involve heating the head first to make it more pliable for removal. Other removal methods that don’t involve heat are not really recommended but are used by many doll enthusiasts, so they will be included below. No matter what head-removal method you use, be aware that breakage/damage is always possible.

• Applying heat to the head before removing. The standard procedure to safely remove a head from a doll body involves heating up the head to make it soft enough to pull off without also pulling out or breaking off the neck mechanism designed to keep the head from coming off. Heat can be applied OVERALL to the head or LOCALLY to the neck area to soften only the neck hole of the head. Recommended heating methods are listed below. A head made of soft vinyl may not require heat for removal if the head can easily be squished between your fingers. Choose the method that best fits the doll’s situation and the equipment you have available, and always use caution to avoid burns when dealing with heat sources or hot objects.
• Test doll hair before exposing a doll to overall heat application. Before subjecting any doll to a method that involves overall heat application to the head, make sure the heat source will not melt or uncurl the hair. This is especially important when using a heating pad or dipping the doll head in boiled water. Test a small strip in the back underside of the doll’s hair by dipping it in hot water. Usually hair will not be harmed when the doll’s head is protected from direct contact with hot water, but the risk remains that exposure to an overall heat source could damage or uncurl it. If it appears overall heat will harm the hair fiber or styling, use a different heating method that is more localized to the doll’s neck area.</li
• Do not use overall heat methods on repainted dolls or dolls with glued-on hair fibers. Intense heat may damage dolls with customized overall face repainting or with facial sculpt modifications. Some customized dolls may have hair fibers glued directly on the scalp, or have a wig glued directly on the scalp. Heat can dislodge the glue and damage the hairstyle. Unless the doll is being redone with new customization, it’s best not to heat up the features that have already been customized. If head removal is necessary, it’s best to try a local application of heat only to the neck area to soften the neck hole.
• OVERALL heat application: Dipping the doll head and neck in hot boiled water. Protect the doll by covering the head and shoulders with a waterproof clear plastic bag like a gallon-size food-storage bag. Water can be boiled in a pan on the stove or in a microwave using a microwave-safe bowl or cup. With either method, use caution in handling hot water to prevent burns. If heating water in a pan on the stove, it’s best to transfer the boiled water to a bowl or cup large enough to dunk the entire doll head up to the shoulders to avoid the doll body touching the side of a hot metal pan and potentially sustaining melt-scars on the body. Leave the head submerged in the water long enough to soften the head sufficiently to pull it off. This may take a minute or longer. If the water cools down before the head is sufficiently soft to remove, reheat the water and continue leaving the doll’s head dipped in the water. When the head is soft enough, remove the bag to proceed with removing the head.
• OVERALL heat application: Placing a heating pad around the doll’s head and shoulders. A heating pad set to low temperature may be sufficient to heat up the head for removal. You may have to adjust the heat setting if low-temp does not make the head pliable enough to remove.
• LOCALIZED heat application: Directed heat from a hairdryer. Heat from a hairdryer can be directed at the neck area to heat up the neck hole enough to allow removal of the head. Take care to hold hair out of the way so direct heat does not hit the hair. Also direct the hairdryer only to the back and sides of the head and neck to prevent heating the front of the face in case the doll has glue-applied lashes or custom face paint. Start with a low setting on the hairdryer and increase the heat setting only if low does not seem sufficient to make the neck hole pliable enough for removal of the head.
• Head removal procedure. Once the head or neck hole is sufficiently pliable for removal from the neck peg, it’s important to proceed with removal before the head cools off. Be sure to hold the neck securely with enough pressure to help prevent the vinyl from cracking or splitting. While pulling gently upward on the head, a slight tilt or rocking motion will help get the lip of the neck hole over the larger piece inside the head that holds the neck hole securely to the neck. Once the knob or prong or disk portion of the neck peg is partially out of the neck hole, tilt the head to the other side to completely dislodge the neck hole from the top piece that secures it. Carefully pull the head straight off the neck peg.
• Dealing with stabilizer prongs. Some neck pegs have prongs to provide additional stabilization for the head. Usually the neck hole will also have additional internal molded layers or flaps or grooves to catch the prongs. Some gentle side or forward twisting may be necessary to dislodge the prongs to allow the head to be pulled off. Oftentimes the prongs can be clipped off with wire cutters or strong scissors to make future head removal less difficult. Usually the prongs are not required to secure the head but instead provide secondary security to prevent the head from accidentally being pulled off.
• Using prying tools to dislodge the head. On soft vinyl heads that tend to be more flexible, a very small flat-head screwdriver may be used to pry up the back part of the neck hole to aid in removal of the head. The screwdriver tip can be inserted at an angle inside the neck hole and maneuvered to dislodge and expose a top knob or disk, or pry out the tips of flexible stabilizer prongs that have a tendency to remain stuck inside the inner neck hole flaps of the head. Prying tools are not recommended for hard vinyl heads, especially older hard vinyl doll heads, as they may chip, crack, or crumble from the applied pressure even after being pre-softened with heat.

For more information, click on the links below to see YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – Removing a doll head and reattaching.
• Integrity Toys Switching heads on normal (hard vinyl) Fashion Royalty dolls.
• Katie Deshazer Rebodying a Barbie doll (removing head using a screwdriver).

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Repairing cracked or chipped doll necks. The severity of structural damage to the doll’s neck will dictate what repair procedures may work best. Following are some detailed suggestions and techniques for repairing cracked and chipped doll necks. These techniques are intended for semi-hard and hard vinyl or plastic necks only, and the neck peg is still intact and functioning, or pulled out but not broken into pieces. For necks where the knob that secures the head is broken or missing, please see our section on MODIFICATIONS – STRUCTURAL, as more invasive and creative repairs are required.

RECOMMENDED SUPPLIES. Listed below are supplies that may come in handy for repairing doll necks that are chipped, broken, or missing pieces of vinyl. Some of these repairs can be done without removing the head, but care should be taken not to bond the head to the neck during the repair.

• • Superglue or clear-drying two-part epoxy glue
  • Acrylic liquid and powder for applying/repairing nail tips, can be purchased as a kit or separately at a beauty-supply store or perhaps Walmart
  • Pure acetone or acetone-containing nail polish remover, non-acetone nail polish remover
  • Plastic tray or other surface to use as a palette for mixing materials
  • Nail file or other fine sanding device to smooth out imperfections
  • Miscellaneous supplies – brush with small fairly firm bristles, cotton swabs, toothpicks, rags
  • Acrylic paint and brushes if desired or needed

Repair small neck cracks or chips using superglue or thin epoxy glue. Superglue is recommended for simple doll neck repairs where the crack or chip is not severe, and all the pieces to the neck are available, and removal of the head is not necessary or is not desired. The objective is to fuse existing pieces of the neck together to strengthen structural integrity. Two-part epoxy glue that is recommended for vinyl/plastic and has a thin consistency can also be used, but will have a longer drying time and may leave more glue residue on the repaired area. It is important to select glue that dries clear, not white.

To fuse cracked neck pieces, simply tilt the head out of the way and apply a very small amount of superglue to the cracked area. Press together to ensure the pieces of the neck are aligned and secure. When almost dry, carefully move the head to make sure it is not glued to the neck. Take care not to disturb the glued pieces while the glue is drying or when moving the head to prevent accidental gluing to the neck.

Wipe off excess superglue from the neck pieces using acetone or acetone-based nail polish remover on a lint-free cloth. Do not apply large amounts of acetone to the vinyl or let it remain on the vinyl, as it may melt or mar the surface. If necessary, sand lightly to smooth off any bumpiness in the repaired area. Wash repaired area with a clean water-dampened cloth.

If desired, apply thin coats of color-matched acrylic paint, allowing dry time between layers. To avoid lumpiness, carefully blend the paint edges with existing vinyl using fingertips or clean damp cloth if needed. When acceptable paint coverage is achieved, coat with a mat acrylic varnish to help protect the paint from wear and abrasions.

For more information, click on the link below to see a YouTube video in a new browser tab:

• Amber Ruxpin – Fixing broken/cracked/chipped doll neck with articulation using superglue.

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Repair large neck cracks and gaps using acrylic nail kit or two-part epoxy resin paste. This technique is recommended for doll neck repairs where the crack or chip is severe, and some pieces of the neck may be missing, and the neck knob may have come out of the neck but is available to put back in during the repair process. In this situation, the head should be removed. If the neck knob is stuck inside the head, heat up the head to soften it and extract the knob. If needed, use needle-nose pliers to grip the knob for extraction.

Repair material with a pasty consistency is recommended to be used as filler for more severe breaks with large gaps or missing pieces. Acrylic nail liquid and powder mixed to a thick consistency, or two-part epoxy with a thick consistency, are the best choices for this type of repair. Before beginning, gather necessary supplies, and make sure the doll neck area is dry and clean. Note that acrylic nail kits come with acrylic resin and powder and may include incidental tools. The acrylic resin and powder may be sold separately. Recommended tools and supplies for this project include acrylic paint and mat varnish, toothpicks or stiff small brushes, plastic palette or other non-porous mixing surface, clean and dry lint-free rags, acetone or acetone-based nail polish remover, and nail file or very fine grit sanding sponge.

WARNING: Use resin material in a well-ventilated area (fan with open windows, etc.), as the fumes can be extremely strong and cause reactions such as severe headaches, mental fuzziness, respiratory distress, and allergic sensitivity. People with high sensitivity should wear goggles and a respirator to avoid inhaling the fumes or incidental particles from sanding. To avoid skin sensitivity, wear nitrile gloves. Protect clothing and work surfaces from spills.

Follow the mixing directions for the brand of acrylic powder and liquid you’re using, and mix it on a plastic tray or another non-porous surface. If desired, add in a bit of acrylic paint mixed to match the vinyl being repaired. Ideally the mixture should have a fairly thick consistency and not be too runny. If mixing paint with the repair material, use a low ratio of paint to resin and powder, and make sure all components are combined evenly so the material cures properly.

Use a toothpick or brush to apply the mixture to the crack or split, and to fill areas where vinyl pieces are missing. Some cracks may need a lot of repair product, others may not. Use the toothpick or brush to smooth the filler and blend it with the surrounding vinyl. If the neck knob is not in the neck, put it back into position before the repair material is completely set. Use baby oil or mineral oil to lubricate the neck knob if the neck area is too tight to pop the knob in. Make sure that the neck joint can still move freely. Smooth and fill in and reshape any repair areas disturbed by inserting the neck knob.

Once the mixture has dried (dry time will depend on the type and brand of repair material used), sand down any rough areas with a nail file or sanding sponge if needed. If paint was not mixed into the repair material, it can be applied on top after sanding and wiping off any sanding particles. As described in the previous section, paint should be color-matched to the vinyl and smoothed and blended to make the repaired area as unnoticeable as possible. When replacing the head on the doll, it’s recommended to heat the head to make it pliable so pushing the head down over the neck knob does not put too much stress on the repaired area of the neck.

Nail polish remover can be used to remove the patch if it didn’t turn out as desired, but be careful not to go overboard when applying acetone-based remover to the doll, as it can mar the surface by melting the vinyl. Nail polish remover can also be used to clean the brush used to apply the patch mixture. If the brush is not cleaned before the patch mixture hardens, the brush will be unusable.

Patching doll necks with nail acrylic can be time-consuming and a bit expensive, so it’s recommended only when it’s absolutely necessary. It may be easier to find a body donor and switch heads rather than patch and repair a generic body that is readily available in better condition. Ultimately you have to make your own decision regarding whether or not to repair or replace a doll body.

For more information, click on the link below to see a YouTube video in a new browser tab:

• A Thousand Splendid Dolls Fixing broken/cracked/chipped doll neck with articulation using nail acrylic.

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REPAIRING BROKEN BODY JOINTS.

Depending on the age and model of doll and the type of joint, attempts to repair a broken shoulder or hip joint may not be entirely successful. With aging vinyl and plastic parts, once a part breaks, it’s likely other surrounding pieces will also break. With any repair involving interior joint mechanisms, the repaired piece it will never be as strong as before, and may not function quite as well as before.

Fixing rotation-only joints. Doll joints with simple rotating movement – up/down or backward/forward with no in/out side movement – usually have less complicated joint mechanisms than dolls with compound joints that offer both rotating and bending movement. Because the rotate-only joint is simpler, it’s common to assume the repair will be easier, but that is not usually the case. Rotating shoulder or hip joints have internal mechanisms, but not all dolls with this type of joint will have the same type of mechanism, due to different designs by different manufacturers.

Most rotating joints feature a protrusion on the appendage where it fastens to the body. That protrusion is shaped to fit into a slot or hole in a rotating disk or rod located inside the body. The protrusion locks into the slot to prevent the appendage from wobbling or falling out, and the rotation of the interior part allows the arm to move. The preferred way to fix a simple rotating joint is to recover the pieces broken apart and reattach them with a bonding agent like a strong glue. But because much of the joint mechanism is inside the torso, it’s oftentimes impossible to recover broken pieces. Cracking open the torso at the seams is NOT RECOMMENDED, because it can do considerable irreparable damage to the doll body by creating stress points in the vinyl and marring of the seam area, creating the need for additional repair work.

For situations where the pieces of the joint cannot be recovered so they can be reassembled and popped into place, a wire joiner may help fix the problem. A wire piece cut from a straightened jumbo paperclip can be heated with a burning candle flame and inserted perpendicularly into the center of the joint. It’s recommended to glue the wire end into the appendage to stabilize it. The other end of the wire is heated and forced into the rotating joint part inside the body.

If there is no stable area inside the body to insert the wire, or the appendage does not have enough stable area to insert the wire, epoxy putty can be used to build a protrusion on the appendage that will be hidden inside the body. A similar buildup of epoxy secured to the inside of the body cavity will create a solid area to attach the other end of the wire. The wire should be solidly secured to the appendage, and any glue or epoxy holding the wire secure should be completely set up before attempting to insert the other end of the wire into the body cavity. This will require two batches of epoxy – one for the appendage, and another mixed later for the body cavity. The wire affixed to the appendage should be pushed into the body cavity epoxy before it dries, to make an indentation for the wire. The appendage should be removed to allow the epoxy inside the body to set. Once set, the wire on the appendage can be reinserted into the indentation created earlier. Since the wire is not glued to the epoxy inside the body, the appendage should be able to rotate.

An alternative to heating the wire and pushing it into the plastic would be to use a drill to create a small hole for the wire, then coat the end of the wire with glue or epoxy to hold it securely to the appendage when inserted into the hole. If a sturdier alternative to the paperclip wire is desired, the head of a wood screw can be epoxied to the appendage so the threaded end can be screwed into something solid in inside the body. The arm will be able to rotate as the screw threads move in and out of the solid piece inside the body.

For more information, click on the links below to watch YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – 1976 Mattel Ballerina Cara shoulder repair.
• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – 1992 Snow White shoulder repair.
• A Thousand Splendid Dolls – Reattach rotating doll legs.
• A Thousand Splendid Dolls Where to get doll body parts.

Fixing peg-insert compound rotation/bend joints. Modern articulating joints allow compound movements of bending and rotation. A peg molded to the joint is inserted into the shaft of an upper portion of the appendage to allow the bottom appendage portion to rotate and bend. If the joint peg breaks off inside the upper appendage, there’s nothing to attach the rest of the appendage. The same wire-joiner technique used to fix a rotate-only joint can be applied to compound joints as well.

The wire is heated in the end and inserted into the joint portion where the peg broke off. The wire will have to be reheated and pushed into the joint several times to fuse it securely to the joint. The wire then will take the place of the broken-off peg. To secure the wire to the appendage you can put a small drop of superglue on the wire before inserting it.

Meanwhile the broken off peg remaining inside the appendage can either be drilled out (carefully using a small electric drill, or using a hand-twist drill bit with handle), or the wire end poking out will have to be reheated and pushed into the appendage several times to create a secure hole where the wire can rotate in the same manner as the broken-off peg used to. This portion of the wire should not be glued if rotation of the appendage attached to the other end is desired, such as for a wrist or ankle or elbow. If the wire segment is sized correctly, it will show very little or not at all when the joint bends.

For more information, ckick on the links below to watch the YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• SimpleCrafts – Repairing Monster High broken appendages/joints.
• SimpleCrafts – Repairing doll hand articulation.

Fixing elastic band hip joints. Dolls like Monster High or jointed-body Barbies oftentimes have their legs held together with industrial-strength elastic bands that are threaded behind a retainer bar in a slot in the top of the leg. The band is run through the crotch area of the doll torso and fastened to the other leg, then tightened. The tension on the band keeps the legs held tight enough to the body that tension and friction allows the legs to hold a pose when they are moved. If the band breaks, it needs to be replaced by getting a heavy elastic cord and running it through the doll’s hip joint system. The ends can be tied tight three times, then clipped off short and stuffed into the doll’s hip joint area.

In the event the slot or bar or loop molded into the top of the leg breaks, a hole can be drilled through the top of the leg crosswise to insert a metal dowel or a nail short enough that there’s space left on either end when it’s inserted through the doll’s leg. The spaces can be filled with colored acrylic resin or epoxy putty to secure the rod in place so the elastic can be threaded through as described above. Make sure any sanding and color finishing is completed on the repair before the elastic is added.

For more information, click on the links below to watch the YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• SimpleCrafts – 5 Minute Crafts For All – Replacing elastic band in doll hip joints.
• Merineiti – Replacing elastic band in doll hip joints.

More to come, but that’s all for now!

As always, any aggregated information we present on this site comes from our own experience and general research of experiences of other hobbyists, and is offered with no guarantee that suggested activities will work as expected or desired. Follow any crafting advice or suggestion at your own risk.

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Doll Customization – Color Modifications and Face-ups

Sometimes the desire to modify a doll is not a restorative repair but instead is the result of the doll owner’s desire to change some aspect of the doll or in extreme cases change the very nature of the doll. Many doll artists and collectors have experimented with a variety of techniques to customize dolls by changing body color, face paint, hair, and other attributes. Following are discussions of various types of aesthetic repairs and modifications that go beyond simple cleaning and refurbishment of a doll.

Hair modifications are treated  in more depth in the section MODIFICATION – HAIR. Be sure to check out selected YouTube video tutorials listed at the end of each sub-section for more information on the various subjects discussed. This will give you a launch point to do further research if desired before attempting any of these modifications yourself.

Recommended supplies for overall doll customizing, including color changes and face-ups. The following list of supplies may come in handy whether you’re making simple repairs to a doll’s face paint or changing the body color, or completely customizing the doll with reroot/wig and so forth. (Hair changes are discussed in more depth in the section MODIFICATION – HAIR.) While repairing a doll’s face paint won’t require as many supplies as those listed below, if you keep these supplies on hand, you’ll be prepared to do a full  customization, including face paint, if and when the time ever comes.

• Artist or student-grade acrylic paints. (NOTE: NEVER use markers or paint pens of any kind to repair a doll’s face paint. Markers can penetrate the vinyl and stain and bleed beyond the point of application. Paint pens often contain chemicals that could react with vinyl.)
• Artist-grade watercolor pencils. (NOT oil-based colored pencils or crayons.)
• Artist-grade pastels. (NOT oil-based pastels or crayons, and NOT hardened stick pastels that contain extra binding agents. Pastels can be in pan – cake – form or stick form.)
• Artist-grade mica powder and/or pearl powder.
• Artist-grade brushes soft bristle. (Sable preferred, including fine-tip.)
• Clean make-up dusting brushes for overall shading/blushing.
• Kneaded eraser easily shaped for precision erasing.
• High-quality artist-grade acrylic sealer or varnish, gloss and mat sheen.
• Mr. Super Clear UV-Mat or an equivalent high-quality artist sealer. (NOTE: Sealers like MSC require specific humidity and temperature ranges to avoid clouding, bubbling, fish-eye, and other surface problems. Drying times are required between successive coats. The chemicals in MSC and many other sealers can be extremely hazardous, so outdoor application with respiratory protection is advised. Always take proper precautions and read all directions before using any chemical applications.)
• Pure acetone. (Use with caution in well-ventilated area, wear gloves, protect surfaces and clothing.)
• Makeup sponges.
• Nail buffing sponges.
• Various grit sanding papers or sanding sponge blocks.
• Cotton swabs, cotton pads, cotton balls.
• Various other supplies like toothpicks, paper towels, hand tools, hair dryer, etc.

To find out more about typical starter doll customizing supplies, click the links below to check out these YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Poppen Atlier – Budget supplies for doll customizing.
• Poppen Atlier – Doll repaint, how to choose pencils.
• Poppen Atlier – Best art pencils for doll repainting.
• Dollumentary – Supplies for doll customizing.
• Dollightful – Materials for doll customizing.
• Doll World Shows  – Supplies needed for doll repaints.

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COLOR-CHANGING/CORRECTING DOLL BODIES AND PARTS

Why change the color of a doll? There are many reasons why a doll enthusiast may want to change the color of a doll or color-correct parts of a doll. Older or damaged dolls may have faded spots or discolorations that can’t be successfully restored, and covering up the color or stain is desired. Sometimes doll collectors like to create one-of-a-kind dolls with fantasy body colors that don’t normally occur in nature. Green witches, blue fairies, pink angels, gray zombies, red demons … the list is limited only by imagination. However, it’s not an easy task to color-correct or change the color of a doll and have the recoloring process result in even and consistent coloring resistant to chips and scratches.

Many doll artists and hobbyists have experimented with total or partial doll body color changes, using dyes or topical application of pigment and sealers. These experiments have resulted in various levels of success (and failure). The process of color-changing a body part or an entire doll body can be labor intensive and require some special equipment and supplies. Below are discussions of the most common methods, dying to penetrate the surface with pigment, and surface pigmentation using paints or pastels. Note that any attempt at changing the color of a doll body or body part can produce unexpected or undesirable results and permanently change or damage whatever doll that might subjected to these procedures.

Differences in vinyl and plastic pigmentation. Before proceeding with a color change or color correction, it’s important to understand that most fashion dolls are made up of various body parts to allow for mass assembly and also for joint movement. Modern fashion dolls, especially those with more advanced articulation, are likely to be composed of a combination of vinyl and plastic parts that vary in chemical composition. Factories that make doll body parts usually have several runs of various body parts, each run being made from separate batches of vinyl or plastic. The body parts are pigmented during the vinyl/plastic manufacturing process, so each part created in a batch is the same color as every other part in the batch. The color runs throughout the part, rather than being painted on or colorized after the manufacturing/molding process. This results in parts that retain their color and do not show a base color underneath the surface if scratched or abraded.

When various body parts are assembled to make each doll in a particular run of dolls, the body parts are usually all intended to be the same color. However, a particular doll formed from randomly selected parts could end up with some parts from one batch, and other parts from a different batch. Due to slight differences in coloration between batches of vinyl, and slight chemical differences between vinyl and plastic parts that affect the way each substance accepts coloration, the doll could have various parts that are slightly different in color, such as a torso slightly darker than the arms and legs, or arms that are slightly different colors even though they are all intended to be the same color. Joints made of plastic could differ greatly in color compared to the rest of the appendage made of vinyl. As vinyl ages, it can change color and become more yellowish or lose pigmentation and become lighter or faded-looking. These color differences can be annoying and disconcerting, and they usually get more noticeable as the doll ages.

There are some exceptions to the unified body color goal when making parts to assemble a specific doll line. Certain doll lines intentionally have different body parts created in different colors, such as white, blue, or pink legs to suggest the doll is wearing colored tights or pants, or hands that are colored differently from the arms to suggest the doll is wearing gloves or wraps or straps on the hands. And some dolls with molded-on clothing may have layers of paint applied to specific molded details after the molding process is completed. Specific doll lines may even have specialty vinyl that is graduated from one color to another, or even clear, to imitate certain fantasy, spectral, robotic, or superhero effects. These effects require specific coloration blends and variations during the molding process, resulting in a doll with deliberately different colored body parts.

While there may be absolutely nothing wrong with a doll manufactured with different colored body parts, a doll artist may choose that doll to customize and require certain parts of the doll, or even all of the doll, to be a different color to conform to the objective the doll artist had in mind. A doll enthusiast may decide for personal or aesthetic reasons to change the coloration of a doll or correct coloration differences achieved or resulting during the manufacturing process. In either case, it’s necessary for the doll artist or enthusiast to go through specific processes to ensure the changes remain as permanent as possible to avoid the necessity of having to go through the process later to correct unsatisfactory results or fix problems with intended recoloring.

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General preparations for color-changing a doll. If structural repairs or body modifications are to be made, those should be completed before color-changing a doll. Make sure the doll is very clean before attempting to dye or apply surface color to the doll. If the doll is stained with ink or marker or dye from doll clothing, it’s best to attempt to remove the stains before dying the body, to avoid peculiar spots where the stain might interfere with dye absorption. Sanding or buffing smooth or hard surfaces may help with absorption of dye pigment but is not required. For surface pigment, sanding is recommended. (See more complete instructions under the applicable section, depending on what type of color change is desired.) If the doll can be taken apart, it is advisable to dismantle it to allow better penetration or coverage with pigment, especially at joint areas. Do not attempt to remove arms and legs of a doll unless you know they are designed to be removed and reassembled. Otherwise you could end up breaking critical joints and damaging the doll permanently.

Removing the doll head. Doll enthusiasts often remove the head of a doll from its body in order to perform different procedures on the doll in preparation for color changes and face-ups, etc. However, if you are not comfortable removing a doll’s head or fear that the vinyl is too old and brittle to perform a head removal without damaging the neck, then it’s best you don’t do it. Just be aware that usually the neck opening of a doll head rests over the top of the neck and will cover up that top edge during a color-change procedure, so special attention would be required to color-treat the part of the neck covered by the head.

The standard procedure to safely remove a head from a doll body involves putting the doll in a clear heat-resistant plastic bag and dunking the doll head and neck in boiled water, leaving it to soak long enough for the heat from the water to soften the head and make it pliable enough to be rocked and pulled gently off the neck post. An alternative method uses the heat from a hair dryer aimed at the back of the neck, with the hair held out of the way to avoid melting the hair or damaging the doll’s face. When the doll head is soft and pliable, it can be gently rocked and pulled from the neck post.

A small flat screwdriver can sometimes be used to help dislodge the neck hole from the post if rocking and pulling appears to be stressing the neck post. Do not use a prying tool on the neck hole if the vinyl is already cracked or torn, as this may increase damage to the head. It is not advisable to use prying tools on 1960’s Barbie heads, as the vinyl can sometimes be very deteriorated to the point the neck hole will split or crumble. Always use caution and care when removing a doll head and be aware that even with extreme care the neck post can break.

For more information about removing doll heads, click the links below to view these YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Katie Deshazer – Rebodying a Barbie Doll (removing head using a screwdriver).
• Integrity – Switching a doll head (using hair dryer on hard vinyl doll head).
• Doll World Shows – Switching Barbie doll heads (boiling water and plastic bag method).

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Color-changing dolls with dye. Vinyl and other types of plastic used to make dolls may have different chemical properties that affect how well each type of plastic will absorb dye pigment. Some parts on a doll may dye easily while other parts may take on only a tinge of pigment. Irregularities in the molding process might create unexpected areas where the vinyl is formed differently. The end result will leave a doll body looking unevenly colored or spotty, with certain parts deeply pigmented and other parts barely colored at all. To even up the overall color, redying or topical application of additional pigment might be required, so be prepared.

NOTE: Under no circumstances should markers – permanent or otherwise – be used to try and dye or change the color of a doll part or entire body. Markers contain chemicals that are incompatible with vinyl and will continually bleed into the vinyl with the added potential of staining other items that come in contact with a doll that has embedded marker stains. Keep in mind that marker stains can be picked up by your fingers and transferred to other dolls, so use care when handling marker-stained dolls.

Dyes may vary by brand as to effectiveness and available colors. Because vinyl is a synthetic material and considered to be nonporous (doesn’t easily absorb), dyes such as Rit Dyemore or IDyePoly may be more effective. As a general rule, follow the directions on dye packages unless you have a specific reason not to do so in order to achieve specific results. If boiling of the dye solution is required, make sure to use a pot large enough to contain the doll body without it touching the edges or sides of the pot to avoid melting the doll body or parts.

Make sure the doll is very clean before attempting to dye it. Sanding or buffing smooth or hard surfaces may help with absorption of pigment but is not required. If the doll can be taken apart, it is advisable to dismantle it to allow better penetration of pigment, especially at joint areas. Due to heat requirements and chemicals involved with dying, it is not advisable to use this method to color-change a soft vinyl or Cyberskin doll, as the body may melt or deform.

Ombre effects can be achieved by repeated dipping of appendages in the dye at different depths, making sure each dip is timed per directions for the dye. Also it’s possible to add additional colors to appendages by dipping them in other dye colors.

Remember: dying a doll or doll parts always comes with the potential risk of unexpected or undesired results that can permanently change or damage your doll. It is highly recommended you do proper research before attempting this procedure. Check out videos at the end of this page to see what other doll enthusiasts have achieved or experienced dying dolls.

For more information about dying dolls, click the links below to watch these YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Tanilla Customs – Dying dolls.
• Lomi’s Playground – Dying resin doll parts.
• Lomi’s Playground – Removing dye and redying resin doll parts.

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Color-changing dolls with paint. Surface-coloring a doll with paint requires specific supplies and procedures to prevent unintentional damage to the doll. Commercial canned spray paints commonly found in hardware stores, such as Krylon or Rustoleum brand, may contain chemicals that will react badly with certain types of vinyl. Even paint suggested for plastic and vinyl could react with parts of a vinyl doll. For instance, the face is made of a softer vinyl that contains more plasticizers, and a spray formula that would work well on a stiff vinyl body might remain gummy or crack on a more pliable body part. Because paint formulas can vary widely, it is suggested that doll bodies be painted only with acrylic paints designed for crafters and artists, rather than hobbyist enamels or commercial-grade paints. See YouTube video tutorials at the end of this page for more information about recommended supplies and procedures to color-change a doll using spray sealers and paints.

Preparation of the doll is required when changing the surface color. Any repairs or other modifications planned for the doll should be completed before color application commences. Because pigment applied to smooth, hard vinyl surfaces will not stick well and will easily scratch or flake off, surface preparation is required to allow better adhesion to the vinyl. Sanding of smooth surfaces, reaching nooks and crannies as well as possible, will provide grip for sealers and paint and other types of colorant. A suggested sanding material is a nail buffer sponge that is flexible with only a very slight abrasive quality. Sandpaper with even a very fine grit can be too coarse and may leave visible surface scratches on the vinyl. It is important when dealing with vinyl dust particles to wear respiratory and eye protection. Gloves are also recommended.

Once sanding is completed, the body must be thoroughly cleaned and dry before applying colorant. A good scrub with a toothbrush, using warm water and dish soap, will help remove sanding dust, body oils from handling, and deep-seated grime. Before attempting to apply sealers or colorant, it’s a good idea to dismantle doll parts that are easily removable, and mask off attached parts where repainting is not desired. A good masking tape or similar tape with superior adhesive is recommended to prevent paint bleed-through or bleeding under the edges of masked areas.

Applying sealant to the doll body and/or parts before applying acrylic paint is not absolutely necessary, but some artists do it, usually using a high-quality non-reactive sealer like Mr. Super Clear UV-Mat. Sometimes a sealer helps the paint adhere better to the vinyl, and applying a topcoat sealer over the paint coat using the same type of sealer tends to create a more durable finish that is less easily scratched off. NOTE: Sealers like MSC require specific humidity and temperature ranges to avoid clouding, bubbling, fish-eye, and other surface problems. Drying times are required between successive coats. Also, the chemicals in MSC and many other sealers can be extremely hazardous, so outdoor application with respiratory protection is advised. Always take proper precautions and read all directions before using any chemical applications.

The objective is to color the body, including nooks and crannies, uniformly. This can be difficult to achieve with hard-to-reach places like partially hidden joints. Anywhere the body is held or propped up by some object will create an obstruction that prevents paint adhering where the prop is touching the body. Most doll artists who plan to apply a spray-propellant sealer or use an airbrush to spray paint or sealer on a body will remove the head of the doll before painting, and spray the head separately. This allows the body to be suspended with a string tied around the normally hidden neck joint, so the body can dangle freely and be reached all around while spraying.

If spray equipment is not available or not desired to paint a doll, liquid sealers and paint can be applied using fine makeup sponges or artist brushes. Sponges will usually produce a more uniform surface while paint brushes may create brush marks in the dried surface. It’s always best to start with thin coats, even if initial coats do not produce complete opaque coverage, and allow the coats to dry before applying successive coats. The gradual buildup of coats will help prevent flaking or cracking of the surface application. This applies to any type of sealer or colorant or topcoat sealer. Also if dabbing or brushing color on the body, it may be easier to paint the body lying down and complete one side or one portion at a time and allowing it to dry before repositioning the doll to paint other areas. Special care should be used to coat joints by moving the jointed limb in one direction, applying sealer and paint and more sealer, then moving it in the opposite direction to repeat the process to make sure as much of the joint as possible is colored.

NOTE: Manually applying or spraying liquid sealers like acrylic varnish or coatings such as Mod Podge or Liquitex brand gloss medium/varnish comes with the real possibility the final coat will end up turning cloudy or sticky. It’s always best to test a sealer before proceeding to use it on an entire doll. Stickiness may occur weeks after initial application. For body painting it’s best to use a mat sealer because the gloss component in a sealer is probably the culprit that creates the contact stickiness. Again, testing materials on a “junk” doll is better than proceeding without testing on a prized doll. And, as always, leaving the outermost surface coated only with a water-base sealer like an acrylic varnish will not make your doll recoloring waterproof or impervious to scratches. It’s always best to use a high-quality water-impervious spray sealer as a topcoat if durability of the color change is desired. Make sure you select a topcoat that will not react to acrylic paint. MSC or a sealer with similar chemical composition is usually a safe choice.

For more information on painting doll bodies, click the links below to watch the YouTube videos in a new browser tab:

• Lomi’s Playground – Mixing paint and painting resin doll body parts.
• Dollumentary – Repainting doll bodies.
• Moonlight Jewel – Repainting doll bodies.
• Doll Doc – Repainting doll bodies with alcohol paint.

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Color-changing dolls using pastel blushing. The technique of color-changing a doll using pastels (artist-grade pan or stick pastels, NOT oil pastels or hard pastels) requires basically the same preparation as color-change with paint. However, while paint completely covers the underlying original color of the doll, pastel layers are translucent and to some extent visually blend the applied colors with the underlying original color. Therefore it’s necessary to have a rudimentary understanding of color theory to correctly apply balanced counteractive pastel colors in successive layers to gradually achieve the desired color.

For instance, to change a light gray doll to a medium brown doll, the first layer might be a brighter pink to warm up the gray, with successive layers of darker colors approaching the desired shade of brown. If the exact color desired is not available in the pastel palette, a mixture of basic colors might be required, such as reds and greens combining to create the desired shade of brown. The more drastic the color change, the more extreme and opposite the pastel layers need to be. Eventually, with successive layers, a semi-opaque coverage of the original color can be achieved, but it is more economical to aim for fewer layers using hues that counterbalance the underlying color so that even if the original color shows through, semi-transparent layers on top will help visually blend the color to give the appearance of a consistent color. Blushing of joints or other areas of the body to create shading will also help add realism to the doll body. This can be a time-consuming and labor-intensive process that also may be expensive when factoring in the cost of recommended supplies.

Pigmented pastel dust is applied with soft brushes in successive semi-transparent layers to achieve semi-opaque coverage. Each layer of applied pastel dust requires a fine “tooth” surface to stick and not slide around or brush off easily. While sanding with a nail buffer will get rid of the surface sheen of molded vinyl, a sealer is required to provide proper tooth for each layer of pastels. A high-quality sealer like Mr. Super Clear UV-Mat is highly recommended rather than acrylic-based sealers, because MSC is less likely to become cloudy or sticky with multiple successive layers. Applying pastel dust with brushes can quickly saturate the surface tooth created by the sealer. When pigment fails to stay in place, a new layer of sealer is required to provide new tooth for more pigment. Each application of sealer requires drying time before pastels can be applied, and a final layer of sealer protects the last layer of color. This build-up with thin layers of pastel dust over MSC, with a final layer of MSC, creates a surface that, unlike acrylic paint, is surprisingly durable and somewhat impervious to scratches.

As with painted dolls, pastel-blushed dolls require special attention to joints to prevent the original color from showing through the applied color. While doll color-changes with pastels are usually more durable and easily shaded, painted dolls can also be shaded with pastel blushing. This process requires patience and skill and will yield better results with practice and experience. There are many doll videos on YouTube that will provide detailed tutorials on recommended supplies and techniques.

For more information on changing doll body color with pastels, click on the link below to watch the YouTube tutorial in a new browser tab:

• Poppen Atlier – Changing doll color with pastel blushing and MSC.

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FACE-UPS: REPAINTING A DOLL’S FACE

There are many reasons to repaint or repair a doll’s factory face paint – to fix faded or scratched paint, to change the look of the doll, or to repaint a face on a total color-changed doll. Repainting a doll’s face requires specialized skill that cannot be acquired without a lot of practice. Along with practice will come some failures or undesirable results. Usually in the beginning, the lack of polished skill will be apparent in jagged or sloppy eye paint, generally darkened or muddied face paint, and a lack of crisp details and subtle color blending. Therefore, when beginning with face-ups, it’s recommended to practice on junk or secondhand dolls of lesser value, so that if the results are unsuccessful, the doll is not a big loss. Also it’s possible to remove a face-up and repaint a doll many times, so if you end up with a face-up you don’t like or no longer feel is up to your standards, you can remove it and start over.

Repairing face paint. Depending on the condition of a doll’s face paint, it may need minor repair, such as a scratch in an eyebrow or lip paint that’s been partially rubbed off. Applying paint to repair a small defect is much easier than doing a complete repaint, and should always be the go-to option when the original face paint is salvageable.

The doll should be thoroughly cleaned and dry before attempting to repair face paint. Premix small amounts of paint to match as closely as possible the painted area you wish to repair. For small spots like partially missing eyebrows, a toothpick tip dabbed in paint can be used to dot in the missing paint. Dabbing paint with thin dots will help avoid over-painting an area with thick globs of paint. Remember, the objective is to match the existing paint, which is more than likely very smooth. If you make a mistake, you can easily wipe off your applied paint with a damp (not soaking-wet) paper towel. Fresh acrylic paint can easily be wiped off without disturbing the factory paint. Even if the acrylic paint you’ve applied is dry, it can be wiped of with very little pressure using a damp cloth or paper towel. Because the paint is easily removed, you may want to apply a sealer coat once you finish your repairs to the face paint by applying a thin layer of mat acrylic sealer over the repainted area. Use gloss sealer only if needed to match the sheen of existing face paint. To avoid creating spots of uneven sheen on the face, apply acrylic sealer only to painted areas of the face. If you are repairing a blushed area on the doll’s cheek, a coat of sealer would probably not look right on part of the face. You can spray a light coat of MSC or other type of sealer over the entire face, but note that to remove that coating you might have to use a chemical remover and end up destroying the original face paint, so decide carefully whether or not a full-face sealer is warranted.

Other types of paint repairs such as repainting white teeth areas in a partially open mouth can be accomplished with a very small-tip brush dampened and run over the tip of a white watercolor pencil to pick up pigment on the brush. This creates a very thin and manageable layer of pigment on the brush tip that is more easily controlled when painting in a very small area. This is preferable to dipping the paint tip in thick acrylic paint and ending up with a small blob on the paintbrush tip. A mat or gloss sealer applied to the lips after the paint repair will help protect the repair.

Changing the eye color of a doll can be accomplished in a similar way by using a small-tip damp brush and picking up pigment from a desired shade of watercolor pencil. Before attempting to repaint the colored part of the eyes, take special notice of how the eyes are detailed. The irises (the colored portion of the eyes) are usually shaded darker at the top where the upper lid casts a shadow on the eyeball. The iris itself may contain a mix of colors. For instance, hazel eyes may have a green background with brown or golden flecks. Some irises have stripes radiating out from the pupil (the black center of the iris). Don’t forget to add a white dot or streak for eye reflection if desired. Seal with a desired sheen of acrylic sealer to protect the newly applied paint.

For more information, click on the link below to watch a YouTube video in a new browser tab.

• pinkxel – Touching up existing doll face paint.

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Repainting a doll face. Repainting an entire doll face from scratch can be exciting and rewarding – and perhaps a bit terrifying. There’s no substitute for knowledge and skill, and if you already have some artistic experience with tools and techniques, you’ll have a good foundation upon which to build the unique skills you’ll need to produce doll face-ups you can be proud of. Sometimes it’s difficult to know where to start. The best advice we can offer is to start at the beginning.

• Make a plan before you begin. If this is your first face-up, making yourself a step-by-step plan of steps to follow may help keep you on track. Include a list of all the supplies and tools you anticipate needing. You can refer back to this list periodically to make sure you haven’t forgotten something or skipped an important step.
• Define and refine your vision. Before you start a face-up, you should decide what you want to accomplish. Focus on more than just the face of your doll. Are you trying to refurbish a damaged doll or do you a vision of a total transformation that may include new clothing, repairs to the doll’s body, or other improvements? Make sketches, refer to photographs, collect pictures from magazines or the internet, or use whatever sources you prefer to provide inspiration and refine your vision for your doll. The old saying, “You can’t make a silk purse out of a sow’s ear,” applies here and ties in with the next consideration.
• Choose the right doll for the face-up you want. If you’re trying to achieve a sleek and aloof look for your doll’s face-up, you probably shouldn’t use a round-faced doll with a big smile as your base. Other considerations might include the ethnicity or coloration of your doll. For instance, If you want to create a haunting ghostly doll, you should probably choose a pale-toned doll with a neutral face-sculpt rather than a tan doll with a big smile. Make sure the face-up you’re envisioning matches the doll you’ve chosen to modify.
• Understand what’s needed to achieve your desired results. Study your “target” face and notice how shading and other details bring a face alive. The eyes are often the most important aspect of a face-up. Learn how to capture subtle details of the eyes to give your face-up “soul.” Of course if you’re aiming for a cartoon or a stylized face, it’s still a good idea to have a sample or reference rather than just jumping in without a clue as to what you’re hoping to accomplish with the face-up.
• Make whatever modifications are needed first. If your doll needs a rereoot or a body repair or some other kind of modification, do it before doing the face-up. Remove the head if necessary. If practical or possible, restyle hair or style rerooted hair that may require the application of hot water to the head.
• Gather your tools and supplies. Once you have a clear idea of your face-up plans, prepare your work area. Have at close hand all the items you anticipate needing to complete the face-up.
• Cover the hair. Protect the hair by covering it up and wrapping it so that the covering material can be pinned down along the hairline of the doll without covering the face near the hairline.
• Apply three coats of MSC. Before beginng the face painting, at least two or three thin coats of Mr. Super Clear UV-Mat varnish are required for proper surface “tooth” on the face (and body if blushing the body to match the face). Allow each layer to dry before applying another layer. Spray outdoors in low-wind conditions and recommended temperature/humidity limits, using a respirator and eye protection.
• Make a preliminary sketch of features. Sketching in the eye shape and lip shape with a light color watercolor pencil allows for alterations that are easier to erase or cover as the face-up progresses. It’s important to establish the shape and boundaries of important features like eyelids and iris placement, especially if you plan to modify the eyes differently from the face sculpt eye shape molded into the sculpt. Eyebrow shaping can also be perfected during the preliminary sketch phase.
• Further define features and begin shading. Once the shape and placement of basic features are established, continue with overall shading to enhance visual contours like cheek hollows and eye sockets. Shading is usually done with large soft brushes like makeup brushes loaded with pastel dust scraped from stick pastels, or by loading the brush with pan pastel pigment. Build up shading until pigment stops clinging to the surface.
• Seal then continue face-up, repeat until done. Apply a coat of sealer and allow to dry. This will protect your work already done and provide new surface tooth for a new layer of pigment. Refine details of your face-up and add additional sealer layers as needed until you are completely satisfied with the face-up.
• Apply final sealer coat and gloss eyes and lips if desired. Once the final sealer coat is dry, eyelashes and other embellishments can be applied. Use a small-tip brush to carefully apply an acrylic gloss varnish to eyes and lips if desired to complete your face-up. Carefully reattach the head and finish your doll makeover with desired accessories and styling.

The simple steps outlined above do not begin to describe the complexity and effort involved in repainting a doll face. We strongly recommend studying multiple YouTube videos of face-up tutorials by various doll artists before attempting your own repaint.

For more information on doll face painting, click the links below to watch the YouTube tutorials in a new browser tab.

• Dollightful – Your first doll customization Part I.
• Dollightful – Your first doll customization Part II.
• Poppen Atlier_ Preparing a doll for repaint, removing hair and makeup.
• SugarCharmShop – Doll face repaint.
• Doll World Shows – Ken repaint and beard stubble.
• Doll World Shows – Barbie repaint.
• hisnameisAkin – Doll face-up and tattoos.
• Dollightful – Doll face repaint without MSC.
• Anandoll – Resin doll face-up using sponge-on acrylic sealer base coat.
• Anandoll – Resin doll face-up using sponge-on acrylic sealer top coat.

More to come, but that’s all for now!

As always, any aggregated information we present on this site comes from our own experience and general research of experiences of other hobbyists, and is offered with no guarantee that suggested activities will work as expected or desired. Follow any crafting advice or suggestion at your own risk.

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Doll Structural Modifications

Doll modifications can go far beyond fixing broken, damaged, older or secondhand fashion dolls. Many doll artists and collectors have experimented with a variety of modification techniques to enhance or fundamentally change the structural and functional aspects of a doll. Sometimes the modifications can change the very nature of the doll. Following are discussions of various techniques for structural modifications that can range from minor to extreme.

BEGINNING A DOLL MODIFICATION PROJECT

Make a detailed plan. Doll enthusiasts oftentimes choose to change the attributes of an existing doll to end up with the kind of personalized doll they want. They may wish to add desired attributes to an existing doll to increase its functionality, such as additional articulation for more posability. Or they may wish to create a unique doll that may not otherwise be available, such as an alien character with an extended neck and legs, or a fantasy character with different hands and feet and ears. The modification choices are endless, limited only by skill, materials, and imagination.

When a makeover project involves some serious modifications, it’s always a good idea to make a detailed plan of:

• What purpose(s) your remade doll will serve (display/diorama, play, resale, etc.)
• How you want your remade doll to look and function
• How you plan to accomplish specific changes included in your doll-remake project
• What space, tools, and supplies will be needed for your doll-remake project

A detailed plan will help you decide whether or not you’re properly skilled and equipped to accomplish the project you’re envisioning. After planning the project thoroughly, you may conclude that certain aspects of your project will require the assistance or services of others, or will require tools or supplies currently unavailable to you. An overall plan with details about every step will help you avoid wasting supplies, time, and energy, and possibly save your doll from irreparable ruin.

Choosing a doll for modification. A project plan necessarily includes choosing a base doll for the modification project. Depending on the objectives of your project, you should carefully examine what base doll you choose to modify. Unless your modification project objective is to improve a specific doll by adding missing features, you should choose a base doll to modify that already has as many desired features as possible. For instance, if you need a highly articulated body for your project, choose a doll with existing articulation so you don’t have to add articulation as part of your modification process. This will help avoid wasting time and resources on modifications that would be unnecessary if you’d chosen the best doll for your project.

If your project choice is limited to the dolls you have on hand, then you must carefully decide which doll will best fit your needs. Part of that choice may involve the decision to “sacrifice” a doll for experimentation, especially if your project is ambitious, and you are not quite sure you can pull it off successfully. If possible, select a less desirable “throw-away” or “junk” doll to experiment on, to test and improve your modification skills. You may end up ruining your test doll, but the practice run will help you get things right before you start modifying your chosen doll.

Another approach would be to plan incrementally more difficult modification projects so you end up with a number of completed projects that are each satisfactory, but with varying degrees of difficulty involved, culminating in a final project featuring all the desired modifications. This would require more time and effort and planning and dolls, but perhaps would be less stressful in avoiding any “ruined” or “wasted” test dolls.

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SUGGESTED SUPPLIES

If you’re planning extensive modifications that include hair changes and color changes and face paint changes, be sure to see our other article on COLOR MODIFICATIONS and our separate section on HAIR for more tips about necessary or recommended supplies and materials to have on hand. In this article we will address mainly supplies and materials that might be used for structural changes. Depending on your project requirements, you may or may not need all these supplies. Some of the recommended supplies would include:

• Air-dry epoxy clay or other similar clay products. Epoxy “clay” is a type of putty that comes in two parts. Each part remains pliable indefinitely until mixed together, usually in a ratio of one-to-one. Once the two parts are mixed, the resulting putty will remain malleable, becoming increasingly stiff and less pliable as the mixture chemically hardens over a certain amount of time. Different brands have different working times and malleability. Most set very hard and can be sanded, drilled, sawed, etc. Some brands and mixes are stiffer and harder to manipulate, while others are somewhat gooey. Typical brands include Aves Apoxie Sculpt (preferred by many doll artists), Aves Apoxie Clay, and Wesco Magic Sculpt. JB Weld and PC-7 are also similar epoxy materials but are intended for shop/industrial use and so therefore may be more difficult to manipulate and mold. Depending on the base color, some pigment can be added to colorize the clay. However, overall coloration of the doll body is usually required after modifications are completed. Tactile gloves are recommended when working with any of these materials.
• Doll-making air-dry clay. Air-dry clay typically used in doll-making includes preferred La Doll Premier. It is billed as the smoothest, finest finish with desired hardness and durability, but is not intended for end-product usage because of its breakage factor. It is used mainly to create doll parts that can be sanded and later have molds made for resin casting. Other air-dry clays intended for modeling and creative play are not durable enough to be used for vinyl doll body modification. Gloves are recommended when working with any of these materials.
• Plastic weld/repair materials. Materials like Plasi-Paste II and Plast-aid are plastic or polymer-based wet materials that can be troweled or otherwise used in various applications for molds, etc., and to repair plastic objects. Once set, the material can be sanded or drilled, etc. but may not be suitable for doll body modification. Gloves are recommended when working with any of these materials.
• Air-dry polymer clay. Polymer clay brands like Sculpy and Fimo are available in air-dry formulas but are not usually as strong or durable as epoxy clays due to cracking and breakage factors. Gloves are recommended when working with any of these materials.
• Air-dry fiber-reinforced clay. Brands like Modena or Hearty produce air-dry fiber-reinforced clays that are intended for creative art projects, but due to breakage factor are generally not suitable for vinyl doll modifications subjected to repeated stress from moving/posing. Gloves are recommended when working with any of these materials.
• Air-dry foam clay. Foam clay is self-hardening clay that contains tiny EVA foam beads, specially-formulated to be lightweight for applications like cosplay, where structural strength and weight are important factors. Hardened foam clay can be molded, sculpted, sanded, drilled, and painted, and will adhere to a variety of surfaces. Homemade recipes are available using typical slime ingredients – PVA glue, shaving cream, and boric acid – mixed with a filler like sawdust or other similar material. Homemade foam clay tends to be heavier and dry harder than commercial types. Use respiratory and contact safety precautions when working with homemade crafting materials, to avoid inhaling small particles or creating skin irritation, etc.
• Flexible air-dry clay. Modeling clay also commonly referred to as “cloud clay” air dries but remains somewhat flexible. This type of clay may suit some purposes such as creating semi-flexible armor or other accessories. It’s possible some “claymation” figure animators may use this clay with bendable armatures to create base figures for film features. Note that the flexibility is limited once dry. An appendage made with this clay, if bent too far, could crack or break.
• Polymer clay (bake-cure). While it is not recommended to use polymer clay on doll body modifications because the clay must be baked at temperatures that will melt the doll body vinyl, separate modifications can be made from polymer clay and baked, then painted and later glued to or otherwise used with the modified doll. Polymer clay typically is not as structurally sound as epoxy clay and is not recommended for horns or ears or fingers that might be subject to breakage in a fall or with repeated movement. However, polymer clay brands typically offer sample sizes in many specialty colors, and this type clay may also be easier to manipulate into small detailed items that can be baked with hooks and other accouterments for decorative purposes.
• Reusable non-drying modeling clay. Another type of clay that may be of use in some applications is oil-based clay (generally referred to as plasticine) that maintains malleability indefinitely. It can be worked over armatures and reworked indefinitely. The clay is very heavy. “Claymation” animators may use this type of clay for figures in animated films because of its flexibility and plasticity. Note that since it remains malleable, it will maintain sculpted/molded shapes only of not subjected to pressure. Some doll artists use this type of clay in the mold-making process when casting doll parts. This clay is not designed to be used as part of a finished project due to its non-hardening properties. It cannot be hardened by baking or subjecting it to heat. Painting is not recommended.
• Epoxy resin and UV-light resin. Some doll artists use two-part epoxy resin and UV-light-cured resin in their doll modification projects. Different brands and mixes of resin are available in colors and in clear, and can have pigments added. Resin sets up hard due to heat from an internal chemical reaction when the two parts are mixed, and depending on the particular type used, can remain somewhat flexible. Set-up times vary greatly depending on the specific kind used. Very durable body parts or accessories can be created using silicone molds. For most liquid resin, molds are required, as sculpting the resin after it hardens does not produce smooth and desired results. Also, sculpting and sanding resin after it hardens can be very difficult and create dust particles extremely harmful if inhaled. A UV-light device specifically designed to cure UV-reactive resin (like resin used in nail art) is required for UV-resin. Gloves and respirator/exhaust equipment is required when working with resin material. Resin fumes can be highly toxic, so extreme caution and safety precautions are highly recommended.
• Silicone mold materials. Silicone molds can be created by mixing two-part silicone mold material and applying it to a part to replicate the part using the mold and a liquid resin or epoxy clay mixture. Silicone molds can be created from ingredients found at home that include liquid dish soap and silicone caulking. Gloves and adequate ventilation are recommended when working with these materials.
• Toaster oven. If you plan to do much sculpting with polymer clay that requires baking, it may be a good idea to keep on hand a dedicated toaster oven that has a variable temperature setting up to at least 350 degrees Fahrenheit, rather than use your kitchen oven that you also use to bake food. Polymer clay gives off some fume particles while baking that can coat the inside of the oven. It is not recommended to mix food with clay fume particles, so a dedicated clay oven is preferred.
• Rotary tool kit with various bits and tips. A small rotary sanding/drilling tool with interchangeable bits, like Dremel brand intended for craft, use will come in handy if you plan to do a lot of modification projects.
• Pasta maker. A small manual-crank metal pasta maker can be used to roll out clay sheets with uniform thickness. A pasta maker can also be used to recondition old clay that has become stiff or crumbly over time, by adding a bit of mineral oil and kneading the clay into balls. Running the clay through the pasta maker will help with the kneading and mixing process.
• Resin or glass clay roller and smooth ceramic tile. A small-diameter smooth cylinder about six to eight inches long can be used to roll out clay in sheets. Rolling the clay on a smooth ceramic or marble tile will assist in picking up the clay from the rolling surface. Also the ceramic tile, if small enough, can be placed in a toaster oven as a movable base for clay pieces to be baked. Placing strips of cardboard or other material of a specific thickness under the ends of the roller while rolling out clay will help ensure the clay sheet thickness is consistent.
• Tools for clay sculpting. Various tools that may come in handy for refined and precise detailed clay sculpting include: – Dental tool kit – Sculpting tool kit – Plastic utensils like spoons and knives – Toothpicks and tweezers
• Armature wire. Stiff malleable wire is recommended to create armatures for sizable sculpture additions of a doll modification project. For instance, if you are adding horns to your doll’s head, a wire attached to the doll’s head and solidified with hot glue at the base to temporarily secure it during the sculpting process will give the horn a solid support structure to adhere to and help maintain the sculpture shape while it dries.
• Aluminum kitchen foil. Aluminum foil can be crunched up and molded into basic shapes to use as armatures over which details are sculpted in clay. The inner foil structure takes the place of clay that would otherwise be used to build up the inside bulk of large appendages or pieces, thus making the overall piece lighter. Thicker gauge foil can be used for larger pieces to provide stronger bulk.
• Miscellaneous supplies. A generic range of items should be kept in the work area to facilitate modification projects: – Gloves, both white cotton and nitrile – Paper towels and plain cotton rags – Sand paper and sanding sponges of various grits – Rubbing alcohol to smooth epoxy clay – Mineral oil to recondition or soften polymer bake clay – Glue gun preferably with dual temperature – Glue sticks (which may come in colors, and also in plastic for plastic gluing) – Aprons to protect clothing – Face masks or respirator and safety goggles while spraying, sanding or drilling, etc.

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RESHAPING/MODIFYING DOLL BODIES AND PARTS

Shape, dimension, and body style considerations. Some doll artists go to extremes to change the body type and specific characteristics of a doll. Changes in body style run the range from adding girth to taking it away, and in extreme cases altering foot size by switching feet from one doll to another. Many other types of modifications are possible. If your modification project includes changing the size and shape of a doll’s basic body type, you may also have to create custom clothing and accessories for your modified doll, because mass-manufactured play-line doll clothing is usually made to fit a specific body size and style.

Most basic play-line fashion dolls are manufactured using somewhat standard sizes for each line of dolls. The main reasons dolls from different manufacturers are similar in size is because a minor doll manufacturer wants to attract potential buyers that would normally purchase dolls made by a more popular brand manufacturer. However, trademarks and other laws generally prohibit a doll manufacturer from exactly copying another manufacturer’s product, so slight differences are built in to each doll line to differentiate one brand from another. One example of this is Mattel Barbie versus ZURU Sparkle Girlz. The head size differs slightly between brands, as well as torso and height. Even with those differences, the general body shape for many “Barbie-style” dolls is similar enough that much of the clothing and many of the shoes and accessories manufactured by Mattel will fit various dolls made by other companies, and clothing and accessories made by other doll manufacturers will oftentimes fit a Barbie doll.

While it may be convenient for consumers to be able to share standard-sized clothing and accessories between doll brands, that is not the primary intent of doll manufacturers. In the last few years, Mattel has branched out to create additional 11-inch fashion dolls that feature different body types that are so different, they cannot all share clothing and shoes. The current Fashionista line now includes standard, petite, tall, and curvy body styles where clothing exchanges between the body styles is limited. Shoe size and configuration also differs, with many of the dolls featuring flat feet or larger feet that cannot wear typical high heel shoes made for previous lines of Barbie dolls. Additionally, different lines of dolls with proportions similar to standard Barbie (like for instance Mattel WWE Superstars or DC Super Hero Girls fashion dolls) may have different appendage sizes, like feet that are nearly the size of Monster High doll feet. Yet it is rare that any of these doll lines with similarly sized feet can share shoes, due to the unique foot shape of each line of dolls. This may in fact be an intentional manufacturing feature, forcing consumers to purchase specialized clothing and accessories for each individual doll line – which translates to more sales for the doll manufacturer.

Novice doll customizers not prepared to create their own clothing may have to find other ways to suit up their custom dolls. For those just starting out who are not adept at small clothing construction, there are independent doll clothing makers who specialize in creating clothing and accessories for various types and sizes of dolls. Some clothing makers may offer to create specialized clothing and accessories to order, for a commission fee. Depending on the uniqueness and complexity of your customizing project, you may end up having to learn how to make your own specialized accouterments to meet your needs.

Shrinking and reshaping soft vinyl doll heads. If your project includes reducing the size of your doll’s head, there are specific methods to achieve head shrinkage. However, note that this modification is not without risks. The soft vinyl shrinkage is achieved by using pure or water-diluted acetone, which removes a certain amount of plasticizer from the vinyl. The head may become harder and more brittle, and the doll’s hair and face paint may be destroyed. The “fast” method of shrinkage uses pure acetone, while the “slower/safer” method, which uses water-diluted acetone, may do a better job of preserving the face paint and hair. With head shrinkage comes shrinkage of the neck hole, so the head may be extremely difficult to reattach to the body without applying high heat to soften the vinyl. Also, if you plan to reroot a shrunken head, be prepared to repuncture all the rooting holes with a stiff needle, as the holes will shrink proportionately with the head. As with any structural modification, there is risk of irreparably ruining your doll.

The basic method of shrinking a head involves removing the head from the doll and submerging the head completely in a jar of acetone or diluted acetone. The jar should be large enough to accommodate temporary expansion/enlargement of the head during the shrinking process. A lid should be placed on the jar during the shrinking process. Proper ventilation and safety precautions are advised.

The head can be reshaped after shrinking is completed. Pressure can be applied for gentle contouring of the cheeks and jawline, or the head can be sanded or shaved with a sharp knife to alter the contour. Reshaping can also be accomplished with epoxy clay or other suitable sculpting compounds such as foam clay.

For more information about various methods, click on the links below to watch the following YouTube videos in a new browser page:

• tamakyu – Shrinking vinyl doll head
• Dirili Dolls – Shrinking vinyl doll heads
• Dirili Dolls – Shrinking vinyl doll heads, quick method
• Dirili Dolls – Shrinking vinyl doll heads, safest method
• Dirili Dolls – Shrinking and reshaping vinyl doll head
• Poppen Atlier – Shrinking doll head and plastic surgery

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Changing/reshaping doll parts with heat. If your project includes changing specific parts of the doll’s body, such as bending a straight arm or bending a wrist, this can be accomplished by submerging the part in hot boiling water, then applying pressure on the part to create a bend in the part. Depending on the severity of the reshaping, the change may have to be done gradually in steps. Between steps it’s advisable to cool the modified part in ice water before continuing to add a bend or other reshaping using hot water. Eventually when the desired reshaping is accomplished, the part can be dunked one last time in the ice water to “freeze” the part in the final reshaped form. Dunking the part in boiling water will generally return it to its original molded state.

For more information, click on the link below to watch the following YouTube video in a new browser page:

• Hextian – Altering Model Muse hand, pose, and body contour

Heat cinching. Heat plus pressure can also be used to add severe contour changes to a body part. For example, a banded or cinched waist reduction can be accomplished by wrapping a braided elastic band around a doll’s waist several times until it is wrapped as many times as possible. Removing the doll’s head is recommended. If the head cannot be removed for some reason, wrap the head and hair in a water-proof bag and avoid dunking that portion of the doll in hot water. Note that steam and heat from the water may remove curls or create frizziness in certain types of doll hair.

Use tongs to submerge the doll’s torso into hot boiling water. Leave in until you see the waist shrink under the pressure of the band around the waist. Be careful to avoid stem or water burns, and avoid letting the doll body touch the bottom or sides of a hot pot to prevent melt marks on the body.

This process can also be done in a bowl filled with boiled water, but the water may cool off quickly, requiring the process to be repeated until reaching the desired results. A long dip in a bowl of ice water is recommended to “freeze” the reshaping of the doll. This can be done on any doll with a hard vinyl torso but is not recommended for dolls with soft or pliable body parts like bend-and-click rubbery legs or Cyberskin dolls.

Reshaping body parts by cutting and/or sculpting. Many modifications are best done by physically removing or adding material to the doll body and/or parts. For example, decreasing or reshaping a doll waistline with a more gradual contour can be accomplished by cutting down and resculpting the waist area. Portions of a doll’s waist can be shaved off or cut out with a sanding tool like a Dremel to create the desired contour. If reshaping is required around the entire circumference of the doll’s body, the waistline section can be cut out and removed. The top and bottom halves of the body can be reattached with wire and hot glue or crumpled and shaped aluminum foil to act as an armature (support) for the area to be resculpted using epoxy clay. After the correct general shape is achieved, smooth and refine the surface. Allow to dry. Sand off any imperfections, then repaint as desired.

Similarly, arms and legs can be extended, or appendages modified and reshaped as desired using a saw and sand paper, or Dremel tool, and finishing with epoxy clay. Parts can be cut, reshaped, or resectioned to lengthen or shorten them. When reattaching cut-apart pieces, it’s usually a good idea to add wire and hot glue or aluminum foil to form a temporary bond and rough shape to support the top coat of epoxy clay that will form the new surface.

Epoxy clay is versatile and stable enough to be used on soft vinyl doll heads. Heads can be shrunk, reshaped by sanding, or added to with epoxy clay. Care should be taken when reattaching a modified head to the doll body. Avoid excessive squeezing or twisting or applying forceful pressure. The epoxy clay is very strong but could possibly crack away from the more flexible vinyl surface underneath and ruin modifications. If you are planning extensive modifications to the doll head, it may be better to modify the body first, attach the head, then do the modifications on the head while it is attached to the body. Take into account the logistics of painting the body and rerooting the head before attaching the modified head to the body. Also do not attempt to epoxy-modify soft vinyl body parts like legs on dolls with bend-click knees or any part of a Cyberskin doll.

For more information, click on the links below to watch the following YouTube videos in a new browser page:

• Broken Dolly TV – Removing teeth on smiling doll with soft vinyl head
• Nicolle’s Dreams – Modding vinyl doll face
• Poppen Atlier – Doll plastic surgery
• Hextian – Cinched doll waist resculpt

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ADDING OR MODIFYING ARTICULATION

Most basic play-line fashion dolls have five points of articulation – at the neck, at the two shoulders, and at the two hips. As a matter of experimentation or improvement/upgrade, a doll enthusiast may attempt to add more articulation to an existing doll that has limited articulation. This may sound simple but can involve drastic structural changes, depending on the level of existing articulation of the doll to be modified.

There are a few basic ways to alter articulation on a doll, depending on the type of doll you’re dealing with, and what kind of articulation alterations you want to make.

• Joint replacement. If a doll has existing articulation but limited joint movement, you can opt to remove the existing joint and replace it with a joint offering a better range of motion. For example, a doll shoulder joint may only allow back and forth swivel movement. You want it to have angular hinged movement as well. You could replace the existing joint by cutting off the arm at the joint and removing the joint mechanism inside the body and inside the shoulder. Then you’d bore out the shoulder and fasten a new compound joint, attaching it to a modified anchor inside the body. This is a complicated process that includes partially resculpting the shoulder, and each specific doll could present unique modification approaches. Therefore, rather than discussing this in detail, we will present some video links at the bottom of this section, so you can visually review the various approaches other doll artists have taken to modify dolls.
• Joint addition. If no articulation exists in an area where you want articulation, you will have to physically add it. For instance, you want to add elbow joints to a doll with straight solid arms. You can cut the arm at the elbow and hollow out a portion of the upper arm to accept the insertion of a joint. Joints may be obtained from:
  1. A doll joint manufacturer.
  2. A similar-sized “scrap” doll used for parts.
  3. A joint you make yourself. Check out the videos listed at the end of this section to see more information about this process.
• Limb replacement or body resectioning. Depending on the nature of the doll you’re trying to articulate, you may find it necessary to replace entire limbs or sections of the body to achieve desired range of motion. For example, a doll has limited hip and knee movement, and you want to extend the range of movement. The problem is, the doll has flexible vinyl legs. Due to the flexible nature of the vinyl, the legs will not be a good candidate for altering hip joints and adding knee joints. Epoxy may stick to the vinyl but will break or flake off when the less sturdy original vinyl flexes. In this instance, the best bet for adding or altering articulation would be:
  1. Remove the doll’s legs from the waist down and replace them with a bottom half from another doll, preferably one that already has desired articulation. This would involve resculpting the waist area of the resectioned doll and repainting.
  2. Remove the doll’s legs and replace them from another doll, preferably one with desired articulation. This would involve resculpting portions of the hip area and integrating hip joints, and repainting the repaired portions.
  3. Remove the doll’s legs and replace them with legs you mold and cast from vinyl or resin. If you use legs you mold yourself, you can incorporate the articulation joints during the casting and assembly process rather than cast a straight leg then cut and alter it to add joints.

Understanding articulation function and differences. Before any modification can take place, a basic understanding of standard articulation is required. Approaches to achieve articulation may vary between doll body manufacturers, even though the basic function may be similar. Here is a simple explanation for the basic types of articulation and how they are typically used on a doll. NOTE: Existing articulation on any given doll may be a combination of several of these basic types, with compound joints utilizing several different types.

• Basic swivel joint. A basic swivel joint allows simple rotation around an interior rod or anchor in the doll body so the moving part rotates around or next to a stationary part. Swivel movement can be either limited back and forth or continuous circular movement around a single axis or plane of a perpendicular stationary piece. Most basic five-point articulated dolls have swivel joints at the neck, shoulders, and hips. The neck movement allows the head to spin around side to side. The shoulder movement allows the arm to spin around up and down at the shoulder joint. The hip movement allows the leg to spin around backward and forward at the hip joint.
• Basic hinge joint. The basic hinge joint allows two parts to swing away from each other like a door swinging away from a door opening. The hinge holds the door to the doorway on one edge so the door can swing freely at the opposite edge. Hinge joints are typically used in elbows and knees on dolls with not-so-advanced articulation. An example is the Mattel Barbie gymnast doll of the 1990’s with hinged elbows and knees that allowed back and forth movement, and a twist waist that allowed swivel movement.
• Peanut double-hinge joint. A double-hinge joint is shaped like a flattened peanut to allow two parts to bend with a back and forth movement independently on each end of the peanut shaped hinge joint. The peanut shape gives extra length to the hinge joint to allow for the thickness of each moving part. Normally on a simple hinge joint, the movement is limited when the two pieces attached to the hinge joint touch each other and stop further movement. A typical single hinge only allows a 45-degree bend, or at best a 90-degree bend. With a peanut double hinge, the parts have two separate bend points spaced apart. When the separate pieces each bend on their independent hinges, the edges of both parts align almost side by side to allow a larger degree of bending motion without the physical barrier of the thickness of each piece impeding the movement of the other piece. The added range of movement better mimics the mobility of the human body. The Mattel Barbie Made-to-Move body has double hinge joints at the elbows and knees to allow the doll to kneel, squat, and touch her face with her hands.
• Pivotal joints. Pivotal joints provide basic back-and-forth or circular swivel motion plus an additional hinge movement that allows the articulated appendage to move in a perpendicular back and forth direction. This type of joint is more complicated and has multiple moving components. Typical pivotal swivel joints include those at the neck that allow twist motion as well as side-to-side and back and forth motions simultaneously. Pivotal joints are often added at the chest, shoulders, elbows, wrists, hips, knees, and ankles. On advanced articulated bodies, pivotal double peanut joints may be used at the major joints while swivel joints are added to upper arms and upper thighs to provide additional posing options that mimic the mobility of the human body. An example of a doll with multiple pivotal double peanut joints and swivel joints is Mattel’s Barbie Made-to-Move body.
• Ball joints. An additional joint component is the ball joint that consists of a rounded portion that sits inside the body or attached appendage cavity to give the joint a smoother more integrated look. This shape in combination with the above-listed joints can yield a very sophisticated and aesthetically pleasing articulation system that allows superior mobility and posing options. An example of ball joints used in vinyl fashion dolls is the Integrity brand Fashion Royalty line. The articulation on these dolls is not quite as mobile as the Mattel Made-to-Move body, but the articulation is more streamlined and visually pleasing. NOTE: The use of “ball joint” in this instance does not suggest the BJD – ball-jointed-doll system where limbs are hollow and joints are strung together with elastic inside the hollow body parts.

For more information on action-figure joints, click on the link below to visit this article in a new browser page:

• “Figure Realm Tutorial”

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Make a plan before altering your doll. As explained previously, making a detailed plan before beginning modifications is an important step to avoid mistakes that could spell disaster for your project. Here are some basic considerations when making your plan:

• Understand the material limitations of your supplies and the doll you’ve chosen for your project. Don’t select a doll for modification that is made of soft vinyl that doesn’t lend itself to structural alterations and won’t hold up to the stress of repeated posing. Also don’t try to use materials to modify your doll that won’t hold up structurally to the intended purpose of the modifications. Using fine doll clay to create joints will cause all your hard work to crack and crumble when put to the test of repeated movement. Instead plan on using sturdier material like epoxy clay. Additionally, take into consideration how you will maintain the aesthetics of painted materials used to create modifications. Acrylic paint used to color body parts should be spray-sealed with an appropriate type sealer to strengthen the paint surface and protect it from scratches caused by casual abrasion. Also it’s best to choose wood rather than metal for joint pieces that will be visible once modification is finished. Wood generally absorbs paint and will stay colored better than smooth metal pieces. You should plan on covering all metal pieces with epoxy clay and then painting it.
• Acknowledge your own limitations and tailor your project accordingly. You may not know how to accomplish certain desired alterations. Limit your project goals to what you know you can accomplish, or do an interim project to perfect the skills necessary to accomplish desired alterations. If you lack the necessary equipment or supplies to accomplish desired alterations, adjust your planned alterations accordingly, or obtain the needed equipment/supplies before you start your project. Ultimately your project success will be limited to the skills and materials you have at the time you start your project.
• Define in detail your plans for adding articulation. Adding articulation to an existing doll requires that you identify which existing joints you may wish to alter, and which areas of the doll to which you may want to add articulation. Altering an existing joint may be more difficult that simply cutting out the joint area and replacing it with a joint that works the way you intended. For example, a doll that has back/forward shoulder rotation only may require removing the entire arm and destroying the existing shoulder joint inside the body in order to replace it with a compound joint that allows rotation as well as perpendicular angular movement. Knowing all the modifications required in various areas of the doll will help ensure you have the correct joints on hand and have a good idea how you are going to accomplish each change.
• Make sure your articulation modifications are scaled correctly for the proportions of the doll body. A detailed drawing of each joint and expected range of motion is advised. This would include scale drawings of the original body parts you plan to keep, so you will know the correct dimensions for parts you plan to add. You can place the doll on a piece of paper and trace the outline to start, then add preliminary placement drawings of modification over the original outline. This will help maintain the proportional length of arms and legs relative to body size when joints are added, to mimic realistic standards for a human body. Relative proportions may need to change if you’re creating a fantasy creature using the underlying structure of a human-representational doll body.
• Plan for material thicknesses. Allowances for material thickness are necessary when planning joints to be partially inserted into the ends of appendages. Material considerations may include allowing for the thickness of a felt lining in the receptor area of a large joint such as a pivotal chest. Lining the interior of the upper chest portion with felt will help avoid wear and tear on painted surfaces that move against it, such as the lower torso portion that is inserted and attached to the upper chest.
• Consider the aesthetics of your modifications. A smooth transition from appendage to joint is always desirable unless you’re specifically aiming for the mechanical look of an automaton. If you have available a doll with sophisticated articulation you want to emulate, study it carefully. It’s easier to make your own plan when you can see how articulation has been created successfully. There’s no need to reinvent the wheel when you can mimic designs already created.

There are several doll artists and enthusiasts who have ventured into doll modification ranging from mild to extreme. Listed below is a sampling of videos you may find helpful and inspiring in your pursuit of doll modification.

For more information, click on the links below to watch the following YouTube videos in a new browser page:

• HeXtian – Simple articulation for Bratz doll flexible vinyl appendages
• hisnameisAkin – Doll body modifications, adding articulation
• Seasonal Frostbite – Inserting doll joints with epoxy modification
• Dollightful – Extreme doll body modifications for articulated fantasy character

More to come, but that’s all for now!

As always, any aggregated information we present on this site comes from our own experience and general research of experiences of other hobbyists, and is offered with no guarantee that suggested activities will work as expected or desired. Follow any crafting advice or suggestion at your own risk.

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